trophy slideshow-left slideshow-right chevron-left chevron-right chevron-light chevron-light play play-outline external-arrow pointer hodinkee-shop hodinkee-shop share-arrow share show-more-arrow watch101-hotspot instagram nav dropdown-arrow full-article-view read-more-arrow close close close email facebook h image-centric-view newletter-icon pinterest search-light hodinkee-logo search magnifying-glass thumbnail-view twitter view-image checkmark triangle-down chevron-right-circle chevron-right-circle-white lock shop live events conversation watch plus plus-circle camera comments download x heart comment default-watch-avatar overflow check-circle right-white right-black comment-bubble instagram speech-bubble shopping-bag shop watch Stories Sort Arrows New Search Clear Search

Three On Three Debating The Best Titanium Watches Under $10,000

Keeping it light while debating some of our favorite titanium watches from Tudor, Grand Seiko, and Zenith.

we took a look at three of what we deemed to be the very finest in-house, manually wound dress watches on the planet</a>. Today we move into a broader category, but one that is very dear to our collective heart here at HODINKEE – independent watchmaking.</p>\n<p>But even more interesting than the folks who craft an amazing piece of original horology and then charge you for it, like a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/blog/inside-laurent-ferrier/">Laurent Ferrier</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/blog/the-road-to-basel-episode-2-inside-the-atelier-of-the-legendary-philippe-dufour/">Philippe Dufour</a>, or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/blog/hands-on-with-the-gmt-six-oclock-from-kari-voutilainen/">Kari Voutilainen</a>, there is a group of independents out there that make fantastic products with unique twists and <i>don't</i> ask for a ton of money. Today we are looking at three truly independent watches, each for under $15,000.</p>\n<p>Read on for a detailed analysis of the Sarpaneva K1, the Speake-Marin Serpent Calendar, and the Habring2 Jumping Second Pilot.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Sarpaneva K1"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>- By Kelly Jasper -</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e167e7e6-9dab-456b-aa2f-28a60e38d4f0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A few weeks ago, when reviewing <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/blog/hands-on-with-the-hublot-692-bang/">the Hublot 692 Bang</a>, I mentioned that the watch resembled “an inter-galactic communications device from an artfully produced dystopian anime film.” On second thought, that description may be a more fitting description of the Sarpaneva K1. This unapologetically bold watch is not for the faint of heart – or for lovers of traditional, conservative watches. And even though my personal tastes <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/blog/just-because-one-of-twelve-fp-journe-chronometre-a-resonance-in-titanium-and-pink-gold/">err toward wristwatches that are cerebral and elegant</a>, I can surely appreciate design in many forms. It’s the same way that, for instance, an astute collector of Vermeer can still be awestruck by Rothko’s minimalism or the gritty newness of Sterling Ruby’s work.</p>\n<p>An e-book on Sarpaneva’s website starts with a quote from the watchmaker himself:</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"full-width","quote":"<p>As far as my friends are concerned, I am doing really useless stuff. And who can blame them? Why would I do this stupid thing?</p>","source":"Stepan Sarpaneva"},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Perhaps this is, more broadly, the horologist’s dilemma. But in Sarpaneva’s case, there is a mad obsession behind his craft, an obsession for watchmaking (obviously), and an obsession for motorsports. Every single one of the 10 watches in Sarpaneva’s current catalog seem to have been conjured up from the guttural, harmonic roar of a custom motorcycle. This is not a coincidence by any means, as the namesake founder owes the founding of Sarpaneva Watches to his love of motorcycles (one of his earliest pieces was a pocket watch made from the kickstart pinion of his first Harley Davidson).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In restoring and repairing cars and motorcycles, Sarpaneva developed a love for all things mechanical, leading to his studies at the School of Watchmaking in Tapiola, Finland, and then WOSTEP in Switzerland. In 2003, he opened a workshop at an old cable factory near the Helsinki shore, where Sarpaneva Watches is still based today.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f1374497-54f8-43e1-8b82-39ca18a9913f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The original Sarpaneva Korona K1 was the brand’s first circular watch (earlier models featured rectangular or aggressively notched cases in the style of a gear wheel). The intricate latticework dial of the Korona K1 was inspired by open-worked iron gratings around the trees along Sarpaneva’s home street in Helsinki. Sarpaneva toyed with this design influence for a while and prototyped a metal dial, before settling on the final version.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The name Korona is a reference to the “corona” that appears around the sun during a solar eclipse, as the latticework dial resembles this phenomenon. The K1 reviewed here is the second version, which keeps the original inspiration on the dial, but with a more aggressively styled case with notches around the perimeter.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["dce56cfb-e2b9-4463-9d3a-2b1493793ad7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Besides the distinctive, scalloped case shape, the first detail you’ll notice about the Sarpaneva K1 is the distinctive three-part dial. Two blued stainless-steel overlays, rest against an iridescent “Imperial Blue” textured base. The most detailed overlay is just 0.3 mm thick and features over 200 holes, each filed and polished by hand over a number of hours.</p>\n<p>Arguably, the dial is most enchanting in the aforementioned “Imperal Blue,\" a deeply pigmented, almost galactic color that alludes to the founder’s fascination with the moon. The dial is also available in \"Rust Brown\" and a version coated in crushed black diamond.</p>\n<p>For having such an emphasis on esoteric design, the look of the dial is tempered by the fully monochromatic color scheme (with the exception of four stainless steel screws to hold the dial together). The result is much more subdued than it would be if the components were multi-colored. The interplay of highly polished lattices on an iridescent textured background is also less offensive than you would imagine.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a54a96eb-f72d-454d-94e9-df3659977203"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Cut from the topmost dial layer are 12 sections for the hours, delineated by thicker latticework and longer proportions than the other sections of the dial layer below. To a degree, the latticework on the middle dial layer can also be used as a minutes track, but the spacing around the dial is somewhat impeded by the hour sections. (A fair warning: I suffer from what I will call the “Movado Effect” – a stubborn and sometimes irrational dislike for watches without applied or painted indices for hours. With the exception of 3 o’clock on the dot, I’m just not that good at approximating the actual time on these types of dials.) That being said, the 12 hour sections on the Sarpaneva K1 are pronounced enough to not only make time telling possible, but relatively painless.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["80d2e733-9e40-4d67-a430-f600b9dfd5be"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Both of the stainless-steel hour and minute hands feature two-toned finishing. One half is polished to a high shine, while the other has a textured finish that complements the iridescent blue background. The hands are most noticeable for their dramatic shape, reminiscent of the swooping aerodynamic lines of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.britishairways.com/en-us/information/about-ba/history-and-heritage/celebrating-concorde/" target=\"_blank\">the Concorde</a>. At their central meeting point, the end of the hands feature a round end with angled portions that create an interesting visual dynamic as the hands move around the dial.</p>\n<p>More importantly, the finishing of all the dial components is superb. All design, prototyping, and manufacturing of the dial (and case) components takes place in Helsinki, supported by local metal workshops and engineering firms. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["5bf295b2-fbae-44fe-88f5-161d7395f2c7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Inside the K1 is a Soprod A10 movement, left relatively unmodified in this version (unlike a newer K1 with a custom date wheel). The self-winding movement features a 42-hour power reserve and (standard) perlage finishing on the plates. However, what really stands out is a fully custom stainless-steel winding mass featuring Sarpaneva’s trademark moon face. All of Sarpaneva’s watches feature this moon in some form, whether <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.sarpanevawatches.com/en/models/korona-k3-black-moon.php/" target=\"_blank\">as part of an actual moon phase complication</a> or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.sarpanevawatches.com/en/models/korona-moonshine.php/" target=\"_blank\">in more pronounced contexts as in the Korona Moonshine</a>. And who could forget Sarpaneva's collaboration with MB&amp;F for the HM3 MoonMachine?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["13ea1ee4-0b50-4c0c-ae7c-4682c00997d4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Of the three watches in his series, the K1 features the least modified movement, with the only real change being the custom winding mass. (All Soprod A10’s feature rhodium-plating with perlage finishing.) While the A10 is a fine mid-level, self-winding movement, the inclusion of a relatively unmodified movement with a list price of about $250 in a watch of this price point ($10,200), suggests that there is (hopefully) a great deal of cost embedded in R&amp;D and production. I almost hesitate to bring the cost of the movement into this discussion because with all watches, and certainly with a Sarpaneva, the real costs are in everything but the movement, and those who focus solely on whether a movement is proprietary are simply missing the the true conversation.</p>\n<p>However, at this price point, I don’t expect to see an in-house movement from an independent watchmaker operating rather far, geographically, from existing supply chains for movement components. While the inclusion of an in-house movement in the K1 would be impressive, it wouldn’t necessarily be that impressive to warrant another look from anyone who is on the fence about this watch. The focus here, without any smoke and mirrors, is on the design, local sourcing, and the personality of the man himself. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8a7f6f70-f636-44f2-a79e-7bf45bcc896c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The second-generation K1 takes the smooth, circular case of its progenitor and corrupts it slightly, by adding subtle mechanical notches inspired by those found around the cases of other <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.sarpanevawatches.com/en/models/supernova.php/" target=\"_blank\">more extreme Sarpaneva watches</a>. These notches add more personality to what would otherwise have been a staid case.</p>\n<p>The case measures 42 mm across the most extended portion of the notches, so it actually wears a bit smaller. Most importantly, the case is very thin, at only 9.8 mm (no doubt the 3.6 mm thick Soprod A10 helps with these svelte proportions). As a result, the K1 wears comfortably on the wrist.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8f2a3779-2f61-47fe-a493-497983161c46"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The stainless-steel case features brushed finishing on the bezel and face of the the lugs, while the sides of the case have a polished surface. Aesthetically, the comparatively simple case complements the geometric dial with poise. The notched, almost pillow-shaped crown stands out for its ease of use, as ergonomics tend to sometimes be an afterthought with this component on other watches.</p>\n<p>Arguably, the K1 is more versatile in than, say, the Habring, for the sheer fact that you can get away wearing it with <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.rickowens.eu/en/men/products/ru14s1768lbo-09/" target=\"_blank\">this</a> one night, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://eboutique.maisonmartinmargiela.com/us/suit_cod49142092ei.html/" target=\"_blank\">something as quietly subversive as this the next day</a>. Granted, neither of those prospects is particularly enticing to me, and the K1 proved slightly challenging to integrate within my wardrobe.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Conclusions"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1c3589f3-e18e-41f7-a694-f12dbcb18652"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Sarpaneva K1 isn’t my kind of watch. But that’s just it: my personal preferences are so far removed from the K1 that I can’t view it as a personal purchase. Hypothetically, as someone whose aesthetic preferences lean toward this type of design, I can easily see the appeal. The K1 is interesting. It’ll turn heads and it’ll constantly be a point of conversation, as it was for my horoligically-inclined and uninclined friends alike.</p>\n<p>Of the three watches featured here, the K1 presents the most interesting story, and the most intimate portrait of the founder presented through a unique and uncompromising design philosophy. The aspect of watch collecting that I find so fascinating (and so heartening) is how truly wide and vast the offerings are on the market, particularly from independent watchmakers. Stepan Sapaneva produces just 50 watches per year across his entire range. So, regardless of whether you order the entry-level K1 or a one-of-a-kind unique commission, your watch will pass through his hands. For some collectors, that fact alone merits the price premium to have one of these truly unique watches on their wrist.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ef33c7f9-9485-4af9-8a5a-fd210914b371"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Speake-Marin Serpent Calendar"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>- By Stephen J. Pulvirent -</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["de9461d9-b349-4712-8b1e-ae59fc4852ea"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Before the Swiss dominated the world of watches and clocks, the British were kings. There is a long tradition of British horologists from Thomas Tompion to John Harrison to George Daniels that forever changed the course of timekeeping with new methods of production and innovative escapements. Peter Speake-Marin inherits some of that legacy while utilizing a mix of British ingenuity and modern Swiss manufacturing to create watches that are truly unique in today’s market.</p>\n<p>If there is a watch Speake-Marin is best known for, it’s the Serpent Calendar. This model combines the Piccadilly case, with its unique shape and lugs, the tapered Roman numeral dial, and the unusual hand set that makes a Speake-Marin watch instantly recognizable. It’s both quirky and classic, with an aesthetic all its own. It’s also one of those watches that most people love or hate. Honestly, I’m somewhere in between.</p>\n<p>At $11,200, the Serpent Calendar is the most expensive of the watches here and more than twice the price of the Habring2. That’s definitely not something we can ignore. Is it worth it? Let’s see.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4959b1e0-9803-4160-90d1-386feb67faa0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are a couple options when it comes to the Serpent Calendar’s dial. While the original features a bright white enamel dial, the current models have either a white lacquer dial like the model discussed here or a subtle silver dial with a brushed finish. The lacquer approximates the look of the original enamel but cuts the cost a little bit – sure, you lose a little bit of the visual depth you get with enamel, but the lacquer is very well executed and we understand the decision here.</p>\n<p>The white lacquer dial is punctuated with inky black printed markings for the hours, minutes, and calendar functions. Around the very edge you have small dots for the minutes with a slightly larger dot at each 5­minute interval, and inside that are the quirky Roman numerals, which taper towards the center of the dial. At first it’s something you might not notice, but it really gives the traditional layout some added personality.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["bae25b0b-a52a-4675-b33c-32f5606ee30a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Inside the Roman numerals the dial steps down just a bit, where you’ll find the Arabic numerals for the calendar function. They mostly avoid creating that cluttered look that can sometimes result from a date display like this, though 28-­31 does look a little tight. At 12 o’clock you have the “Speake­-Marin Switzerland” signature – although Peter Speake­-Marin is British, the workshop is in Switzerland and the watches are created from Swiss components – and the topping tool motif is printed at 6 o’clock. Even though there is a lot going on, there is still enough open white lacquer to keep the Serpent Calendar’s dial feeling light.</p>\n<p>The blued-steel hands are another Speake-­Marin signature. The hour hand is in a broad spade shape, the minute hand tapers towards the center of the hand before expanding again, and the thin second hand is counterbalanced by a circular shape. Of course there is also the namesake serpent calendar hand, which curls out from the center of the dial before ending just short of the calendar numerals. If you’re making a quick glance at the Serpent Calendar, the four shapes are all easily distinguishable, meaning you won’t mix up the indications. This was something I was concerned about when I first strapped on the watch, but it was never an issue in practice.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["5456935a-8f75-47fc-864d-118dffea90f1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Like the other watches here, the Serpent Calendar employs a base movement that has been modified by the manufacture to a significant degree. Inside this watch is the caliber Eros, the core movement in Speake­-Marin’s range. The Eros is based on a Technotime 738, which is an automatic movement with a five-day power reserve coming from a double-barrel system and a date indication.</p>\n<p>Now, while this isn’t an in-­house caliber, the Eros is a far cry from your standard Technotime 738 and I really enjoyed the modifications. First there are the changes to the architecture. The bridges have been redesigned to give the movement a different look – it’s much curvier and has those long swooping lines – and they have been completed with a sunburst finish. The edges are beveled, the engraving has been hand­filled with lacquer to give it some added contrast, and the undersides of the plates have been decorated with perlage.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["bcb05118-0cac-4154-af13-4976c3c79845"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The bridge for the automatic winding mechanism has been replaced entirely and the rotor is a custom rotor created by Speake-­Marin in the topping tool motif. It is an extremely intricate rotor, with a lot of curves and points, allowing the workshop to show off its finishing prowess. The edges are all beveled by hand and circular grained before the entire thing undergoes a dark blue PVD treatment that gives it the look of blued steel.</p>\n<p>Of course the standard window and wheel date display had to be modified to create the serpent display, but you can’t really see these modifications from the back of the movement. However, the quick­set for the date works smoothly and it seems like the entire system is well­ integrated.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f4e6013c-79fb-4d00-8ff3-fcb900d18398"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>At this price, would I prefer to see an in-­house movement? Sure, of course I would. But the Eros is sufficiently different from the base movement and is finished in a distinctive style that very much feels Speake-Marin. Honestly, just looking, I bet few people would guess that this isn’t in­-house. It’s a nice movement and deserves to be commended on its own terms.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9be5ef9d-8057-486d-8cb3-42219379dd80"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Piccadilly case is probably the most recognizable thing about any Speake-Marin watch. The three­-piece design has been part of Speake­-Marin’s aesthetic from the very beginning and it’s a polarizing shape. It has steep sides, a large crown, and long, robust lugs and you'll find it in everything from the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/blog/2011/11/14/introducing-the-speake-marin-spirit-pioneer-a-casual-militar.html/">entry level Spirit-Pioneer</a> to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/blog/2010/9/15/hands-on-with-peter-speake-marins-marin-2-thalassa-video.html/">the in-house Thalassa</a>, to even his tourbillons. Let’s look at it piece by piece.</p>\n<p>First is the main body of the case. For the Serpent Calendar, you have the option of either 38 mm or 42 mm, and both are 12 mm thick. Here we have the 38 mm case, though it does feel big for a watch of that size. While 12 mm certainly isn’t overly thick by modern standards, it does feel big due to the steep side and the slim bezel gives the dial the appearance of being larger than it is.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b820738d-2245-4243-9d65-8dbc729c3288"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The large faceted crown does make operating the watch a breeze, but some might find it a little flashy. Beyond aesthetics though, those facets do have sharp edges and if it rubs your wrist the wrong way it can be a little uncomfortable. If you’ve ever worn a pilot’s watch with an over-sized crown, you’ll have some sense of what I’m talking about here.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["fb883a26-35f3-4159-a297-469d9cd456fa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And then there are those lugs. From a mile away you can tell a watch is a Speake­-Marin from those lugs. They’re extremely long, jut out from the center of the case, and have over-sized screws visible on the outside. When I first tried on the Serpent Calendar, I found them to be surprisingly comfortable. Even on a small wrist like mine, they kind of worked. But, visually, they seem to overpower the case a little, and I found myself going back and forth between liking them and finding them frustrating on a watch I otherwise really enjoyed. I will say that without the giant lugs, the over-sized crown would look out of place, so they do provide some balance there. Still, the lugs are not my favorite. This is one of those personal decisions you’ll have to make for yourself.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["d807aaef-d0f6-4465-aa19-da635d6e66ee"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The stainless-steel case is polished on every surface, which, while making the watch appear bright and modern, also makes it a magnet for fingerprints and dirt. If you’re at all like me, that will drive you crazy and I would love to see what this watch might look like with a more subtle finish to the Piccadilly case.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Conclusions"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Serpent Calendar embodies most of the visual and technical cues that represent what Speake-­Marin is about. The Piccadilly case is one of the most unique cases out there today, and while I’m still on the fence about those lugs, it has more fans than I can count. The dial is well executed, the unique Speake­-Marin hand set is just beautiful, and the Eros caliber displays some serious hand­work while taking advantage of a robust base.</p>\n<p>Speake­-Marin is a compelling brand that produces a unique product. The namesake watchmaker is very much alive and well, still at the helm of his brand, and the team of 10 in Switzerland will create only 500 to 600 watches this year. It’s a small, truly independent brand that has a personality and a spirit that sets it apart from the mass­-market brands that make decisions by large committees.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Habring2 Jumping Second Pilot"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>- By Benjamin Clymer -</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d448c7fb-785f-4185-8498-cc46f38c4bf7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f3deaeba-c46f-4805-89c9-5700a6db7e60"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Richard and Maria Habring comprise a tiny little watchmaking company called Habring2, located in Völkermarkt, Austria. They make no more than 80 pieces per year, and it is their goal to bring fine watchmaking to \"normal\" people, and in a sustainable, robust way. Essentially, they want to build you a very special watch, using very simple base methods, that will last you a lifetime without much hassle. I first fell in love with <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/blog/2012/4/5/in-depth-the-habring2-doppel-20-courtesy-of-the-man-who-inve.html/">the Habring2 Doppel 2.0</a>, an exceptionally cool split-seconds chronograph the pair made a few years back using a system Habring developed for IWC in the early '90s. It was Habring who came up with the idea of using a simple Valjoux 7750 as the base chronograph for a highly complex rattrapante. This idea of high complications for the masses is incredibly appealing to me as A) something of a proponent for sharing the love of mechanical watchmaking to as many people as possible; and B) someone who simply can't afford <i>real</i> complications with any great regularity. Habring2 brings things down to affordable levels, and the watch here, the Jumping Second Pilot, is one of their most affordable and most interesting. Actually, last year, my colleagues and I on the jury of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve voted this very watch as the recipient of the Petite Aiguille Prize for the best watch under CHF 7,500. In 2012, the Doppel 2.0 won at the GPHG for best sports watch. So, while Habring2 isn't a brand known by many, it is one that, within a certain circle, is extremely highly regarded.</p>\n<p>Before we break this watch down, what is the Habring2 Jumping Second Pilot? It's a true dead-beat seconds pilots watch that retails for $5,300. Interest piqued? Thought so.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["afcd6114-4243-4129-bde4-ffbee5246e00"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial of the Habring2 is incredibly simple. It's black, flat, and 100 percent utilitarian in nature. It features Superluminova-filled Arabic hour markers at the poles, giving it something of an \"explorer dial\" look. The remaining hours are simple applied hashmarks, and the inner track, Habring2 signature, and outer seconds track are printed on the dial.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f506076f-83d5-4eb6-a16a-5dd82f616390"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The design of this dial reflects the Habrings' approach to watchmaking: a focus on purity, an in this case, to produce a knock-out, dead-beat seconds watch for not very much money. The important thing for the dial here is great legibility (check), easy-to-read seconds marks (check) and supreme functionality over all else (check, check, and check) Do the high contrast, white seconds hands and markers against a matte-black dial make it easy to do all that's necessary here? Sure. Do I wish there was a little more detail and attention to quality paid to this dial? Yes, yes I do. But my complaint about the simplicity of the dial on the Jumping Second will be washed away when we get to the movement section of this story.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["435c4478-3973-4f3a-903a-fac6a3ba35af"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The case on this Austrian pilot's watch mimics the bare bones nature of the dial. The entire 42 mm steel body is brushed, with very little attention paid to finishing. There is no polishing, no beveling, nothing that makes a case interesting. And, by no means is this a thin watch. Should a pilot's watch be thin? It doesn't have to be, but nothing says it should be thick, either. The official thickness per Habring2 is 12.5 mm, but it feels thicker still.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ef9931f1-b04c-46c2-8814-2957c418516d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The watch does not wear horribly at all, especially considering that this is truly a very casual timepiece. The thick case, flat black dial, and stitched calf leather strap tell me it isn't a piece meant to be worn with a jacket and tie. Though, the day we filmed this, I was indeed wearing a jacket, and though it may not be its natural habitat, the Habring2 Jumping Second Pilot didn't look totally out of place.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7adb5e5b-538a-40d8-98d0-220bb38eec4b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But, in the picture above, you can see that my shirt cuff is unbuttoned. Part of that is because I am lazy and rarely button my cuffs, but for the purpose of this story, the truth is the Habring2 would not fit under my shirt cuff if it were buttoned. Maybe my shirt cuffs are too small, or maybe this watch is too thick. Or, maybe this watch wasn't designed to be worn under a shirt cuff.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f8e335d9-60d3-4285-a35d-01f545224760"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So, we have a very simple, but effective dial, and a very simple, if thick case. Now, for the movement – this is where things get good.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["852f0cf6-adca-4343-a8a9-e95d91ce35e3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If there is one thing that Richard and Maria Habring know how to do well, it's making epic freaking movements, and the one found in this watch is just downright dirty...in a good way. The gear train of the Jumping Second movement is based off the Valjoux 7750. They don't hide it, in fact <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.habring2.com/en/collection/jumping-second/" target=\"_blank\">i</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.habring2.com/en/collection/jumping-second/" target=\"_blank\">t's the first thing listed about the movement on the product page</a>. Here, making a movement that works like and functions like this from a 7750 is a badge of honor. There is no PR gaffe here, or naivete, and nobody has this movement except for Habring2.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e68fd5c6-bd0f-496b-be62-c14e60d99d13"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So, what Habring2 does for its movements, more or less, is (to borrow an analogy from Habring himself) \"[take] a hamburger, remove the bun, add a slice of cheese, and close it back up again.\" Here, the rotor of the 7750 is gone. Instead, you have a genius, completely in-house-designed and produced dead beat seconds module that allows the watch to tick as if it were a quartz watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["250f1757-ea29-4984-9dac-670fd8fab207"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Dead beat watches date back to the time of Breguet, but most famously were used in the 1940s and '50s for their accuracy and ease of reading. Rolex's Tru-Beat is one example, and more recently, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://vimeo.com/22005983/" target=\"_blank\">the Grönefelds revived interest in this concept with their One Hertz watch</a>.  A dead beat seconds was famously used by those in the medical profession because it was easiest to take a pulse, but now this complication is all about precision timekeeping. The Habrings fell into this idea of a simple complication when they were able to acquire around 100 movements from a defunct manufacture called Chézard, which was responsible for making most of the jumping seconds movements of the 20th century. When Habring2 launched this model using the Chézard ebauches, the success was so overwhelming that they decided to make their own version of the concept, which you see above.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["28c78b20-e865-4077-91fe-afab66ddb174"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But, what makes this watch so interesting is that the dead beat seconds mechanism is a module. Just like the Doppel chronograph is a module. If you wanted, for example, the Doppel 3.0 with a calendar mechanism, you could have it. It would require sandwiching the modules together. The same could be true of the Doppel 3.0 with a center minutes hand, or other variations. You can even have this watch, the Jumping Second Pilot, with a self-winding rotor, or big-date. The Habrings genuinely believe in modular construction, which allows them to create complications as they like without having to start from scratch. It is what allows Habring to make $10,000 mono-pusher split seconds chronographs and $5,300 dead beat seconds watches. Oh, that and absolutely not a single dollar spent on advertising or public relations.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2136d675-3d6e-43f0-a0f0-ed95bc39713d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>However, it is modular construction that make their watches 12.5 mm thick. It is the modular construction that makes some purist collectors turn up their noses at Habring2, despite the obvious appeal to real watch lovers. So, this movement is fantastic looking, incredibly precise (see the video to see what I mean) and remarkably well priced. So it's not a manufacture movement, but the module is in-house, and it's downright brilliant.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Conclusions"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Nothing is perfect. Habring2 spent so much time and effort producing a simply incredible movement at a great price that I feel the overall package and desirability of the watch suffers a bit. The case is too thick for my liking. The dial, a little too flat. If they were both even just 20 percent sleeker, I'd probably own this watch. I liked it enough to cast my vote for it in last year's GPHG because it represents a truly next level understanding of complications and what people <i>actually </i>want in their watches. But, even when function is flawless like it is in this instance, one can not ignore form. I'm not saying the case and dial are <i>bad</i>. But they're certainly not <i>great</i>, and for an independent trying to compete for watch lovers' time, attention, and dollars<strong>, </strong>I think they should be. However, at $5,300 for a dead beat seconds watch from a true independent with incredible pedigree, can I really complain about the case and dial? </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Head-to-Head Breakdown"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fec6c0e7-712d-478b-91f0-8eecfccf3e3a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What is funny about this comparison of three independent watches using outsourced movements is that in the three categories that we really focused on, there were clear winners. That does necessarily mean there was a clear favorite, however.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>We all agreed that Stepan Sarpaneva's masterful, layered lattice dial was clearly the most interesting and most well executed dial of the bunch. Granted, all dials are very different, but dialwork is one of Sarpaneva's calling cards and this was really impressive.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8d6ecb75-0f57-428d-81e1-b1c710663eb9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Here, again, Sarpaneva was the favorite. Speake-Marin was close behind, but the supreme wearabiity of the Finn's watch elevated it above the Brit's Serpent Calendar. The finishing on the Speake-Marin was quite nice, but those lugs are really love/hate. The Sarpaneva's case is just as interesting without being so polarizing. The Habring2 case was a distant third in this category, but then again, their watch costs half the price.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ce17b37e-1a03-4303-aba1-88b893bf3e39"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Finally, Habring2 takes a win in the movement category. We all talked for a while about this, and while the finishing and modifications on the Speake-Marin are truly exceptional, we felt that the Habring2 is really something just totally <i>different</i>. There is nobody out there like them, producing movements this interesting or this accurate with a total disregard for the traditional tenets of what makes movements desirable. The dead beat mechanism on this 7750 is just plain awesome, and we were all blown away by its precision.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["0b75e477-373c-4625-98eb-9751dfccb2a5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Conclusions"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>At the end of the day, all three of these watches have a lot to offer. If you're a gear-head, the Habring2 is your watch. If you're a style and design guy, it's the Sarpaneva. If you want traditional watchmaking with traditional fit and finish, it's the Speake-Marin. Ultimately, though it didn't stand out in any of the three categories, we all felt the Speake-Marin might actually be the most complete overall package.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["6bcf0f1f-1120-42ab-ab77-5748ebab6435"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Unlike the three pieces we showed you <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/features/three-on-three-manual-dress-watch/">in our first head-to-head-to-head comparison</a><strong>, </strong>which were really very similar pieces<strong>, </strong>the Speake-Marin, Habring2, and Sarpaneva are very different watches fighting the same fight, and that's for the independent spirit and craftsmanship in an industry dominated by giant luxury conglomerates. None of these brands spend millions on marketing, none have celebrity ambassadors, and the way they survive is by people like us, like you, bucking the norm of buying something from your corner shop and taking the time to learn about the men and women behind the brands. Every watch featured here will go through the hands of person whose name is on the dial, and that is beautiful, and rare. Sarpaneva, Speake-Marin, and the Habrings all happen to be wonderful, warm, interesting, and engaging people, so in addition to buying a watch, you might just end up with a new friend if you choose to go down the road of purchasing an independent timepiece. They also prove that exclusive, high-end independent timepieces don't have to cost as much as a (very expensive) car. So, while Dufour, Journe, Ferrier, and Voutilainen offer something exceptional in this world, the spirit here is very much the same.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4f71d04d-1b29-40e4-ba53-1294dc096f92"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Additional Reading"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.sarpanevawatches.com/en/home.php/" target=\"_blank\">Read more on Stepan Sarpaneva here</a></p>\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.speake-marin.com//" target=\"_blank\">Read more on Peter Speake-Marin here</a></p>\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.habring2.com/en/home/" target=\"_blank\">Read more on Richard and Maria Habring here</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"images":["8986f4fc-2802-46a3-b86e-638d03657f5e","11bfe1f7-36f2-4136-8c07-87a2d210093b","51668f0b-ca6d-4e89-9bbd-57e461f6b3fd","d6c41054-d633-44d6-8892-7fbe1dbeed5c","54704cd7-ff35-4fe3-8103-30b1fb825e31","f9e6da34-2ddc-4b08-ad51-6a60d57f5267","ab7ca055-52ec-42dc-89c0-9fb0a3e2b654","259a0b46-1ff9-4edb-a64b-eba82b3c7539","f76df4c7-be40-4d77-9900-701f60f18e54","e6e97154-c5ba-40ca-af94-fbc6c2d7f1e1","6a25be0a-79a0-4dbd-8ba0-ccb0765a1654","2f748daa-b417-4ab4-a8e4-f6e5c22d17f1","100955e5-5d72-49a6-80fb-97923a2e2637","dad99b35-3200-4eb0-80ce-028cddd3dc15","3e844453-1b49-49ad-b741-3349e504450e","9d0a1c6a-78bb-4370-9ec3-d14b9c6bc702","53515784-ff9f-4245-b041-ad53ae5b55b8","3483228b-bc2a-4a4e-82b8-d8e956fa264e","17adc1a9-32c3-463f-8e40-38be1fd8e7c6","00db09f0-0856-4b70-9415-48c996d6c8b7","7cb113ef-2e07-4d5d-9073-eca94a3f5c61","72dad132-1c51-4b53-a722-6486f351ff73","e70032da-2abe-4268-8ad6-4a52ff50d305","d1e6e621-4d44-4b72-bf1e-5ea016060726","70612e44-aa80-4445-9350-deecc01f1489","1af742e6-754e-41d2-b3ad-53fbdb69d5ad","9939fec2-e212-4b25-990b-03cdc7a71fad","53c8b6e6-6fa7-4ace-9ae1-68832c18aaf1","a29101d0-3be6-4777-be71-7040c7efd227","e926bb8b-e76f-4ba3-9999-4785ebca501b","50edc4c9-a8d1-45b1-b582-48e364a0051e","8dd342f2-8345-4532-8f67-d6bb28975700","302696d0-99bf-41c5-91cb-bc5650766e5b","b2ef7992-9c81-4e4c-8bac-8ebc17706555","602f76d5-c724-4fca-a553-48de4de50f2d","b0a7db00-4632-4faa-a087-e5babe25218d","f6448de6-e050-46c4-b90c-ab0fc17def5e","ee833633-388a-4e4b-b522-1688c4911a34","0b740e62-63a5-4523-9ed7-1b13c5cf8a86","a7e2df13-60be-45b2-ba84-32c5406c6568","4603131e-b2a2-4ee9-ac71-81989fcd81de","6deb0c91-7530-4b6c-86cb-9518a8e3d605","d1bf37ba-8bdd-4e14-b72b-d2f634a34a7b","6a691d20-dbd3-4380-b762-f1ad165aec0e","dbd22719-842a-4b37-af1f-f9f7eb1625e9","f99a8242-fe65-4d05-875c-3c93d116c0fe","7771fb8c-7344-42c4-8d5b-356718174e1b","a9b99bd5-f04f-47ee-b196-7478f40addcc","4c8ad501-06fc-4bff-9a39-ff7668face24","23d0bd6a-59c1-4eac-941f-0f04d3d733f0","75edccc2-0786-4259-bb0b-ef402b89380d","bb929f97-2c6f-4720-ba96-78512c7bd7f2","f0450ce1-e61a-4c0d-85b1-17d9ec7caa96","62444e8a-2f97-4a24-9cf0-7f5abc6cf52a","9942af11-3941-4f79-8c75-2829b6d6801c","2980b535-3561-4fdc-90ae-f596ceebc193","11128781-4535-48bd-9e49-617ceb67a1ea","facb70af-3830-4e81-8854-1d58ac76a028","9a81d27d-24fe-4eb4-8bcb-dc8e7176cde7","52617e9a-39f2-4cfa-bd03-f83f4b10bf0e","7e3ae949-7cd3-4504-bf06-3927b391abba","603016e2-db2d-4408-838a-67fb54558737","9a7b6b05-a139-414e-aaa6-e10304995d96","dfa6373a-5656-400a-86cd-394870f13055","8dc4992d-1b4f-42ef-a4a8-e87a72f5c0f0","b0b58a1d-7586-40f6-9562-4f121631e6de","96e3c8a9-2e62-4ac1-8351-f5a204c5d2ef","47bf5e73-9eaf-487b-9d42-9d4996ef3ac2","2684d29d-7506-4148-902c-36ca471c4018","13f41ad5-810e-4c8d-a31f-d0122ccc358c","cd89ff01-38be-4fda-bca5-69648414d9b3","efcd3461-81d9-4819-a227-b039017a08e8","3236fa24-5a19-4283-8cc8-fbd80399530d","9ed420ac-cfcf-48a2-a2be-3b435ac758e6","c96ef06f-6e8a-4e28-90db-4caf448443e6","2191eda7-b041-49ad-a9be-aa72bf0713ac","11b71734-8b21-43a5-9967-5267b7df7e20","5ed6574e-3a9d-4735-94b7-ec5d0212eada"]},"type":"Block::Gallery"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"ffe9111f-1f00-4535-b609-5d8fa1119ef4","container_id":2223,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://cdn.hodinkee.com/uploads/article/hero_image/2223/_img.jpg","width":1500,"height":1000,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":"<p></p>","alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-02-20T20:30:07.261-05:00","updated_at":"2017-04-23T12:44:00.897-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/article/hero_image/2223/_img.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":20,"slug":"three_on_three","name":"Three On Three","description":"Head-to-head comparisons of three leading watches within a product category.","sort_order":15,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.209-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.515-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/three-on-three-comparing-affordable-independent-watches","full_title":"Three On Three: Comparing Independent Watches Under $15,000","tags":[]},{"id":2197,"slug":"three-on-three-manual-dress-watch","column_slug":"three_on_three","title":"Comparing In-House, Manually-Wound Dress Watches Under $20,000","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2014-03-13T09:41:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2015-03-06T16:35:10.000-05:00","updated_at":"2024-01-05T14:04:19.519-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":142,"lede":"<p>The manually-wound dress watch is a basic in any man's wardrobe, and we're putting three that feature in-house movements for under $20,000 to the test.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106668148001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":"afddasfasdf.jpg","gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":"/features/three-on-three-manual-dress-watch","multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":"https://cdn.hodinkee.com/uploads/article/hero_image/2197/DSC_1996_copy.jpg","hero_homepage_image_url":"https://cdn.hodinkee.com/uploads/article/hero_homepage_image/2197/afddasfasdf.jpg","view_count":172895,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":"3de11dfe-4c68-4ab3-874b-8a67a642b0c9","display_template":"feature","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>Welcome to Three On Three. It's one thing for us to give you an in-depth look at a single watch, to wear it and review it, on its own. But there are always options out there. With Three On Three we select a category, choose three watches that represent competitive takes on a theme, and compare them head-to-head. To kick things off, we went with a basic in any man's watch wardrobe, the manually-wound dress watch. Of course we had to get a little more selective, so we've picked three that all feature in-house movements for under $20,000: A. Lange &amp; Söhne's Saxonia in pink gold, F.P. Journe's Chronomètre Bleu, and Vacheron Constantin's Patrimony Traditionnelle Small Seconds in pink gold. All three are seriously impressive entry points into true high-end watchmaking and here Benjamin Clymer, Stephen Pulvirent, and Paul Boutros dissect them side-by-side.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8ab680fd-98d3-49fd-b854-d93eed48aaf8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Let's start with the set-up. For someone looking to get into real in-house watchmaking, a basic time-only watch is a likely (and smart) entry point. A manually-wound movement doesn't have a rotor to distract from the movement architecture and finishing, letting the manufacture show off what they're capable of doing. Without complications, the design must be spot-on as any flaws or shortcomings will come to the fore pretty quickly. Plus these watches are an indispensable part of any watch collection and are often the least expensive choice in a manufacture's stable. Sure, $20,000 isn't a small sum of money, but if you want to step up to the top tier of watchmaking it's a reasonable place to begin.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["22992b0d-f33a-420b-8869-9ab4b0359cdc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>We selected the three watches here based on a few strict criteria. First, they had to feature true in-house movements, designed, manufactured, and finished in-house by the manufacture – nothing pulled in and branded \"in-house\" without the work behind it. They had to be manually-wound and feature nothing but the hours, minutes, and seconds, in addition to being dressy enough to wear with a suit when necessary. And, finally, they had to be examples of real top-notch watchmaking – this isn't about finding a rare vintage Submariner, it's about pure modern watchmaking.</p>\n<p>Each of us wore one of the three watches for a week and then we got together to discuss the results. We were even able to find examples of the Journe and Lange that had already been worn (the Lange on a daily basis) so you could actually see what these look like after they leave their respective boutiques and spend some time on the wrist.</p>\n<p>Alright, let's get into it. Here's Three On Three.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Small Seconds"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>- By Benjamin Clymer -</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["902c843e-34bc-4c05-8be9-0e6d40c18af1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Vacheron Patrimony Traditionnelle Small Seconds is, in my very humble opinion, one of the best dress watches in current production. It is a watch I’ve considered purchasing myself on more than one occasion. What makes this watch so strong is that it is an unrelenting dress watch with patrimony that can not be rivaled by either the Journe or the Lange. What I mean is Vacheron has an extensive history making watches just like the Patrimony, and while both the Chronomètre Bleu and the Saxonia are truly beautiful timepieces from two wonderful manufactures, they are not the Journe or Lange I would choose to own, were price of no concern. The Patrimony is indeed a Vacheron I would own, even if I could afford more.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ac99fcc7-d0dd-4333-b98c-8a6aa1debea8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Priced at $19,990, you are getting one of the most well-rounded high-end watches on the planet for what seems to me to be a very fair price. While not completely without fault, VC’s manually-wound dress watch left me duly impressed and only wanting more.</p>\n<p><strong>The Dial</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["04e85252-d2a0-4558-9d73-fc2762d03458"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Patrimony’s dial is a beautiful mixture of vintage and modern design. The off-white color provides a nice aged feel, and the finish is silver opaline with a fine texture. At 6 o’clock sits a running seconds dial with incredibly subtle snailing. At the outer edges of the dial and the sub-seconds register, you’ll fine a graduated minute/seconds track, in the traditional 1940s “railroad” style. This gives the watch a very balanced, almost Art Deco look to it. The hour markers are solid 18k 5N pink gold and stem cleanly from the inner bezel. At 12 o’clock you will find a solid-gold applied maltese cross and “Vacheron Constantin Geneve” perched above the dial’s center point.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e18c63b3-8296-479b-9535-40878ec19213"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Patrimony’s hands are solid gold and dauphine-shaped, providing incredible shine when the light catches them. The face of this watch is incredibly legible, understated, and interesting – and just downright perfect. Though, if I were forced to nitpick, I wouldn’t mind seeing the font size of “Vacheron Constantin” reduced by just a few points.  </p>\n<p><strong>The Movement</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4ccf7b80-5ddb-41ed-8edd-df34ee8d5cd5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The real beauty of this watch is its in-house, manually-wound movement. Inside the Patrimony Traditionnelle Small Seconds is Vacheron Constantin’s caliber 4400. The 4400 is, in my opinion, the very foundation of Vacheron as a true modern manufacture. One must remember that while VC has always been considered one of the finest watchmakers in the world, they were not a true manufacture until relatively recently. It was the 4400 that took Vacheron’s incredible high-segment expertise and brought it to the masses, so to speak. Work began on the caliber 4400 three years after the introduction of the caliber 1400 – Vacheron’s in-house self-winding movement – in 2005. It was first shown in 2009 in the Historiques American 1921, and since then has been the foundation of the mark’s most elegant timepieces.  </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["33310620-fe1e-44f4-96e7-6bf75a9ac6a1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The large (for the time – 28.5mm / 12.5’’’) movement was met with warm regards by collectors when first shown, and in a famous Hour Lounge post <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.thehourlounge.com/thread/view/the-dream-team-historiques-american-1921-and-caliber-4400_28240_28240.html/" target=\"_blank\">Kari Voutilainen himself sang the movement’s praises</a>. The 4400 uses a large single barrel with reverser – as opposed to the double barrel found in the Journe – that still provides for a full 65 hours of power reserve, even longer than the reserve in the Journe. Additionally, the Vacheron’s movement is built for lasting use via an abundance of jewels (28), some found in places not normally known to include them. The goal is to create the least amount of friction on the gears so that the 4400 is a long lasting, service-free movement.  </p>\n<p>The architecture of this in-house movement is traditionally Genevan, and represents nothing but the finest Swiss design. The movement features a Geneva seal, and the watch is just expertly finished. You’ll find all interior angles beveled by hand, with deep Geneva striping across the entire movement.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["312135ab-d499-42bf-8473-0d5e11571646"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While so much of the cost of a watch in this league comes down to finishing – and yes, Vacheron spared no expense here – what makes this caliber and this watch so appealing to me is that it couples great design and finishing with practicality. This watch is meant to be serviceable. Sure, average Journe or Lange owners will want to send their watches back from whence they came, and the same is likely true for Vacheron owners, I love the idea that Vacheron has made their base movement serviceable by anybody that has expertise in high-end movements. The other two calibers here require special tools and potentially even training to work on. I own watches from the 1930s and 40s, and I think anyone who is the same boat will appreciate why this matters. You simply never know what will happen in business or in life, and I want to know that if this watch stays in my family for the next 75 years, that it will at least be serviceable. With the Vacheron, I know that to be the case.  </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["bf0be5b9-383f-498a-8ce8-2c23309ba6f6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Oh, and it’s just beautiful, too. One shortcoming when comparing the 4400 to the Journe is the lack of a free-sprung balance, though Lange’s Saxonia also uses a fixed balance. As Paul mentions in his discussion of the Lange, it’s a minor criticism meaningless to all but the nerdiest of watch nerds. </p>\n<p><strong>The Case</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["23e61380-dba3-4336-a65f-c42e4a5a9c76"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When this watch was announced, the original press release made mention of the watches Vacheron produced from the 1930s through the 1950s – some of my favorite watches from any brand, from any time period. So, the slim, 38mm size with knurled mid-case feels very much the same as the great watches from Vacheron’s most progressive period of development, without feeling frail at all. The case sits squarely on the wrist and isn’t too demure to pass with an Oxford shirt and jeans on the weekend, though it is certainly best suited for a blazer and tie. The creamy pink nature of the 5N compound used for this Vacheron is just lovely, and no one would ever mistake it for traditional yellow gold. The ribbed midcase and screwed caseback, coupled with the slightly downturned lugs, give this watch a great presence on the wrist, as if it’s really attached to you.  </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["d14d5711-1448-453e-b85b-3325a8b98d41"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>From the rear, the beautiful movement fills the case wonderfully with just the right amount of bezel showing. I also happen to believe 38mm is the absolute perfect size for a modern, thoughtful dress watch.</p>\n<p><strong>Conclusions</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["fb3e80a7-93ae-40a2-931b-42f9c84a59fb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I can’t say enough nice things about the Patrimony Traditionnelle Small Seconds. I really believe that all three of these watches offer something remarkable for the price, but on a practical level, I think the Vacheron is perhaps the most honest, and the most lasting. I love the Chronomètre Bleu from Journe, but in a perfect world, I’d much rather own the Chronomètre Souverain, or Resonance. I love the Saxonia from Lange, but I’d much rather own the 1815 Up/Down, Lange 1, Datograph, or Zeitwerk. With Vacheron, I believe that this basic 38mm watch that retails for under $20,000 might just be one of the brand’s finest offerings overall.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["172545a0-fd0f-48cb-b2f6-6c542fbc6b5d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Sure, I would love a 14-day tourbillon, or a Patrimony chronograph, but Vacheron’s unique history with dress watches tied together with the unique elegance, performance, and styling of the case, dial, and in particular, the movement, make this watch more than the sum of its parts. This isn’t an entry level Vacheron in my eyes, this watch IS Vacheron, and it is downright perfect.  </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"F. P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>- By Stephen J. Pulvirent -</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6403512c-b7b4-4bff-8bf6-9346c597d888"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Chronomètre Bleu stands out next to the other two watches here in a number of ways – it has a blue dial with numerals instead of batons, it’s the largest at 39mm, and the case is tantalum instead of rose gold. This is not traditional manually-wound dress watch, though it can certainly serve the same function given the right context. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["952e2984-538a-489c-b37c-34b9892bbeed"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Priced at $19,890, the CB comes in just under our $20,000 limit and is essentially Journe’s Chronomètre Souverain without the power reserve indicator and in a non-precious metal at about two-thirds the price. Its fans include <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/blog/talking-watches-with-jj-redick/">J.J. Reddick</a> amongst others, and it offers extremely avant garde watchmaking in a package to match. That doesn’t come without its problems, but overall I found a lot to love about the Chronomètre Bleu.</p>\n<p><strong>The Dial</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["3f2544b0-7096-48e1-9184-c949edd31f88"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>We’ll start with that name-sake dial. It’s blue – and I mean very blue. To call it iridescent would be an understatement. Instead, “mirrored” or “reflective” seems a much better adjective. This can be a blessing or a curse, depending on the lighting. In extremely bright light, the color really shows through but can make the dial appear almost too bright, while in more moderate conditions the color appears very deep and shifts as the light moves across it. The effect here is incredible, plus it makes reading the dial easy in low-light situations, even with no luminous material to be found anywhere.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b871533e-8fb4-4017-a4d0-beb48d4d11a3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The numerals are off-white and printed concentrically inside a minutes chapter ring (also printed). Officially, the color is “cream,” though it appears just soft enough that it’s not obviously bright white. If you look closely, you’ll notice that the numbers 7 and 8 are slightly smaller than the others, allowing space for the seconds register without cutting off the bottoms of the numbers. It’s an interesting treatment, and one that I didn’t like at first and grew to appreciate. The guilloché and beveling on the subregister adds some texture to the expansive dial, something I found very welcome.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["bceec4d0-cec8-4f87-a74a-f2523c0b9d43"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The hands match the registers and are Journe’s signature shape. These painted hands and printed dial markings might bother some who are looking for a really high-end dial treatment. The printing is clean and well done, but both the other watches here have top-notch applied indexes and faceted hands, bringing some richness to the table.</p>\n<p><strong>The Movement</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["95c5643a-c229-46c6-917a-ca350a8d5a37"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial sets this watch apart visually for the competition here, and the movement does exactly the same thing. While the Vacheron Constantin has a quintessentially Swiss movement and the Lange abides by traditional Saxon techniques, this movement is something all its own. The caliber 1304 is designed and manufactured in-house by F.P. Journe and is made of solid 18k rose gold. It is 30.4mm across and 3.75mm thick, but appears to have a ton of visual depth. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ec001355-321f-42ca-82da-6e626c2035b0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Of the three watches here, the CB is the only one to have two mainspring barrels, here run in parallel for better chronometric performance over the full duration of the power reserve. But, it’s worth noting that this doesn’t give it the largest power reserve of the three watches – at 56 hours, it’s outperformed here by the Vacheron’s large single barrel. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["dcd94233-3df7-40fb-9a0d-6cf965b7fc7e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The architecture of this movement is incredible. It’s very modern and unlike anything else you’ll find on the market. Looking through the sapphire caseback you’ll find the barrels held up by a large bridge on the left side by the winding crown. A single wheel of the going train is visible and then there is a chasm separating the barrels from the balance cock. It appears as if the balance is floating off on its own on the other side of the gap, but actually the gear train is hidden between the mainplate and the dial, creating this illusion. In that gap between the two parts of the movement, the mainplate is decorated with elaborate barleycorn guilloche and some perlage as well. The bridges are all striped and have deep beveled edges with internal and external angles. The sinks for the 22 jewels and the slots for the mirror-polished screws are chamfered and add that little extra level of finishing that is hard to find. There’s no doubt this is a very high-end manufacture movement.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7b7ca534-ec99-4268-b680-62d317d83ef0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But, that comes with some problems. The unique architecture is going to make this a tough movement to have serviced down the road. I’m obviously not speaking from first-hand experience here, but when the CB needs work, I would imagine that it will need to go to F.P. Journe and not a typical watchmaker. That concealed gear train alone would likely prove confusing. Additionally, Journe uses proprietary screwheads on the caseback, again meaning this will have to go home for service.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["0cfc8985-818d-46b5-b049-799fcfa22f32"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Performance was good during the entire week I wore the Chronomètre Bleu. I set the watch at the beginning of the week, and it was still spot on at the end. It did bug me though that the seconds hand does not hack, meaning setting the watch precisely to the second is difficult. For a watch with Chronomètre in the name, I fully expected this feature.</p>\n<p>So, in the caliber 1304 you get a unique movement that you’ll want to stare at all day. It does come at a cost however, with service options being somewhat limited down the road. It's worth noting here that the Chronomètre Bleu is the only watch tested here made by a true independent brand. While both Vacheron and Lange fall under the Richemont umbrella, Journe is independent, making around 900 watches per year right in the heart of Geneva.</p>\n<p><strong>The Case</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["cde048a6-83b7-45e3-b3f2-de47e1cdaec7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The CB is the largest of the watches reviewed here at 39mm, but at 8.6mm thick it wears very slim. The lugs are short and curved, and the case back is relatively flat, which combine to keep this watch tight to the wrist. The supplied blue alligator strap is thin in a great way and just amplifies the effect. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2a832f33-b237-4f57-8531-9af97deaf80e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Another defining feature of the CB is the case material – tantalum. It’s a dense, inert metal that sometimes serves as a substitute for platinum in industrial applications. It serves much the same purpose here. You get dark grey colors with slight blue tinges, the heft of platinum, and durability even greater than steel. I personally love platinum cases but hate how badly they scratch, and I quickly fell in love with tantalum.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7e0bded6-740d-45b9-8684-54f1b0c7caa1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The design is pretty simple, with a flat bezel, simple caseband, and the very flat F.P. Journe crown. On a manually-wound watch like this, this crown design is a bit annoying It can be difficult to wind and is all but impossible to work with while the watch is on the wrist. I didn’t mind it for the week, but I could see this getting annoying after a while.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c15092f6-dad2-4139-a568-1e1c07709f65"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The overall effect of the simple case is letting the dial do most of the talking. Until a recent change to larger sizes, F.P. Journe’s watches were available in either 38mm and 40mm cases, and only the CB comes in at 39mm. It’s a great size if you want a watch that can bridge the casual-formal gap. I wore the watch with a sportcoat and tie one night to a nice dinner and it felt perfectly appropriate; going to a neighborhood bar in a sweatshirt just a few days later, I still felt the watch looked spot on.</p>\n<p><strong>Conclusions</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["46555b8d-12ec-44c9-8480-648b9d2f7719"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu is a very idiosyncratic watch – mostly in great ways. The dial design and movement architecture are both unique and modern in a way that isn’t garish. I found myself staring at both the dial and movement while wearing the watch and enjoyed the versatility as well – if you’re looking for your first piece of really serious horology, it’s a nice upside that you can wear it in a variety of settings. Additionally, while both Lange and Vacheron are owned by the enormous, publicly traded luxury group Richemont, Journe is a true independent making just 900 watches per year from a small manufacture in downtown Geneva. To many, this will be appealing, just as it's appealing to me.  Still, it is worth noting though that future service costs could be higher than usual and you’ll want to take this into account up front. Ultimately, I just flat out enjoyed the Chronomètre Bleu and can heartily recommend it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>- By Paul Boutros -</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5c3d0906-8812-4fa1-b386-58f20d1a244a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The moment I set my eyes on the Saxonia, I knew it was every bit a serious, high-end watch. The Saxonia is the entry-level offering from A. Lange &amp; Söhne, but in no way is it entry level. Consistent with my experiences with other Langes, I was immediately impressed by the Saxonia’s wonderful heft. The weight is striking, especially when comparing similar dress watches from competing brands – it feels solid, assured, and oh so luxurious.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["813dacbd-ddd5-4ede-a18a-96641f549409"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Retailing for $18,600 in 18 karat rose gold ($19,800 in white gold), the Saxonia is the lowest priced model in Lange’s collection (and the lowest priced watch discussed here). Produced in its current form since 2007, this version replaced a smaller, 34 mm Saxonia launched as part of the brand’s rebirth in 1994. Now measuring 37 mm, it was completely redesigned with a minimalist aesthetic that reminds me of elegant dress watches from the middle of the last century.</p>\n<p><strong>The Dial</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8222bfea-beb1-4d0e-b3be-4b1cab9532cb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With the out-sized date of its predecessor eliminated, the Saxonia displays its only functions – minutes, hours, and seconds – with exceptional clarity. Made of solid silver, the expansive dial is adorned with beautiful and very fine, faceted baton markers and associated spherical “dew drops” at each hour. The top surface of each solid-gold marker features four mirror-polished facets, while the sides are vertically brushed. The result is brilliant reflections of light off these tiny surfaces.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9f6455c3-11b2-4b7d-bd2f-e2e6ca935701"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I’m a big fan of Lange’s signature “lancet” hands. Also made of solid gold, I appreciated that they’re non-luminous. Each is finished immaculately, with perfectly executed bevels at the centers and wonderfully rounded tips. The tip of the minute hand extends precisely to the outer edge of the minute track. Similarly, on the sunken sub-dial at 6 o’clock, the seconds hand extends precisely to the end of each seconds mark. The attention to detail is wonderful.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9b06b68b-068c-48e8-bc31-ee4cff9340d7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Even the sapphire crystal is of the highest optical quality as it’s treated with anti-reflective coatings on both sides. Since the crystal is slightly curved, I would have liked to see the tip of the minute hand curved downwards towards the dial to correct for parallax error. A minor, and very personal, issue here.</p>\n<p><strong>The Movement</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1d7c3e58-1ccd-47b8-b662-f4fa5120dc19"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Turn the watch over and an exhibition case back exposes an immaculately finished in-house, manually-wound caliber L941.1. It’s the same base caliber that was used in the original Saxonia from 1994, re-engineered without the date function. Measuring 25.6 mm in diameter with a height of 3.2 mm, it’s a bit undersized for the updated case diameter. This didn’t bother me much, but out of the three watches reviewed in this comparison, the L941.1 is the smallest by nearly 3 mm. Using one mainspring barrel, it provides 45 hours of power reserve on a full wind. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e63cf39e-d4f9-42b2-b0b7-d50bd832e241"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Nearly everything in the movement reflects the uncompromised and costly approach taken in its design and construction. The result is a movement that dazzles with hand-applied Glashütte ribbing, gold-filled engravings, solid-gold chatons, jewels, and blued and polished screws. There are 166 finely finished parts; bridges, plates, and screw edges are anglaged and mirror polished, holes are chamfered, and flat surfaces are mirror polished or perlaged. This is an extremely well-made and well-finished caliber, explaining why this “simple” watch has a retail price approaching $20,000.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f60ab8a3-db5c-4087-a522-5f17b58490bf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Like every Lange, the movement uses a robust, three-quarter plate design – a traditional approach introduced by Ferdinand Lange, the brand’s founding father, in 1864. All bridges and plates are untreated German silver, an alloy of nickel, copper, and zinc. Stronger than brass, this alloy develops a creamy, golden-hued patina over time that serves to protect the movement from further oxidation. However, working with German silver is difficult and the oils from your fingers will leave permanent marks. This means any watchmaker who services the watch must be extremely careful, or you’ll end up with a marked movement forever.</p>\n<p>Four visible jewels are mounted within polished, solid-gold chatons, each secured with two or three blued screws. No longer necessary for modern watches, chatons were a high-quality feature used in Lange’s historic pocket watches to ease the replacement of jewels during servicing. Here they’re a flourish that indicates quality and an adherence to tradition.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a412bf52-b18b-4d18-88ff-775738390fc5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In a similar nod, a screwed balance wheel with a beautifully finished swan-neck regulator is used for the escapement. It oscillates at a relaxed and leisurely 21,600 beats-per-hour with a crisp, quiet ticking sound that brings a smile to your face. The balance cock to which they’re secured is hand-engraved – a pleasing, traditional feature that adds a touch of uniqueness to all of Lange’s timepieces. A stop-seconds function stops the balance wheel when the crown is pulled out, allowing time to be set to the second. I’d prefer the use of a free-sprung escapement (capable of higher accuracy over a regulator-based escapement) as found in Lange’s higher-priced watches, but this is a minor criticism.</p>\n<p><strong>The Case</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["30838059-df9b-4307-8831-39e53c02e001"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Saxonia is housed in a three-part case measuring just 7.7 mm thick – well proportioned with its 37 mm diameter. Generous use of solid gold on case components makes the watch feel much heavier than you’d expect. The rose-gold case is mirror polished on all surfaces, whereas there’s be a mix of brushed and mirror polished surfaces on the white-gold version. Claw-shaped lugs, chamfered at every edge, are positioned exactly in the center of the caseband. They’re elongated and extend low. Combined with a flat caseback, this allows the watch to fit very comfortably on my wrist.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["d34f50d7-c806-4168-b068-c003d964b3cf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A thin, curved bezel surrounds the dial, making the watch appear larger than 37 mm. The knurled crown is embossed with “A. Lange &amp; Söhne.” Although comfortable to wind, the crown is slightly undersized in my opinion, and may prove difficult to wind for those with larger fingers – especially when the watch is on the wrist.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["6449063c-e687-4b9a-a7f3-0560f48d9459"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Saxonia ships with a large-grain, crocodile strap fitted with one of the best tang buckles in the business. Made from a solid block of gold, it incorporates a lower crossbar near its base that optimizes the curvature of the strap for maximum comfort. This might sound minor, but it’s one of the little details that adds to the overall package here.</p>\n<p><strong>Conclusions</strong></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2cec488f-b1ec-41a2-b7da-54cf9480c89c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I liked the Saxonia much more than I expected to. The criticisms I mentioned – smaller movement, lack of a free-sprung escapement – in no way affected my practical enjoyment of the watch, especially while it was worn. They’re more intellectual quibbles than anything. It’s a superb dress watch that skillfully blends traditional watchmaking with modern yet classic styling. It’s elegantly balanced, magnificently constructed, and impeccably finished. At just below $20,000 retail, it puts Lange’s uncompromising approach to high watchmaking within the reach of many.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Head-To-Head Breakdown"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["02e8ef81-a0d5-42e0-8b8f-d73fbcba12ab"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8c144afb-0742-4e2e-b32e-a22334401836"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>The Dials</strong></p>\n<p>When it comes to the dials of these three watches, the Chronomètre Bleu is the obvious stand-out. The chrome blue is beautiful and certainly non-traditional, plus it makes the watch distinctly more casual in overall appearance than the other two. But, the applied gold markers and elegant gold hands on both the Vacheron and the Lange beat out the printed numerals and painted hands of the Journe without a doubt in terms of overall quality and detail of finishing.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4082cc0a-8a7c-4a1e-81cf-c1e69828e21e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>The Movements</strong></p>\n<p>As mentioned above, the caliber 4400 is one of the best manually-wound movements being made today and an absolute benchmark for Vacheron Constantin. It has traditional architecture, fine finishing, and bears the Geneva Hallmark – it can be worked on by almost any skilled watchmaker, making ownership easy long-term. In contrast, both the Lange and the Journe house beautiful movements that might present servicing hardships down the line. The Lange caliber L941.1 is made of German silver, meaning it cannot be touched without protection, and the three-quarter plate construction makes reassembly tough without proprietary tools. Though it does offer a beautiful view through the case back, the totally modern architecture of the Journe caliber 1304, including 18k gold construction and hidden gears, is going to make the movement difficult for anyone but F.P. Journe to service. Each of these movements comes with tradeoffs, though the Vacheron 4400 achieves the best balance here.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["65f311ba-eb19-4361-ad97-03f426738eeb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>The Cases</strong></p>\n<p>We tested both the Vacheron and the Lange in pink gold, though they're available in other metals as well. Identical in thickness and only 1mm different in diameter, the two wore similarly on the wrist. The Vacheron has some extra finishing details, like knurled edges, that added a little interest, but both were great. The Chronomètre Bleu has a unique tantalum case, which combines the durability of titanium with the heft of platinum. It's easy to dress up or down, and even though it was the largest of the three (in both diameter and thickness), it wore the most comfortably. Winding with the thin crown was a bit fiddly, but otherwise it was the best fit on the wrist.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Additional Considerations"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>These are certainly not the only high-quality, time-only watches out there, nor are they the only good values under $20,000.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["6b38e988-f4e4-422c-afa0-66695f5f99a5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One watch that you're probably already thinking about is the Patek Philippe Calatrava, arguably the gold standard when it comes to simple dress watches. First off, it's not under $20,000. The Calatrava closest to the watches we examined here is the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.patek.com/contents/default/en/5196R_001.html/" target=\"_blank\">ref. 5196</a>, with a 37mm case and a sub-seconds register on the dial. Retail price is $21,500 for yellow gold and $23,600 for both white and rose, so it could not be considered in this Three On Three. Additionally, it uses an older Patek Philippe movement, the Caliber 215 PS, which is only 21.9mm in the 37mm case. Here we wanted to focus on watches more contemporary throughout.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["80dee706-ed24-4622-8ce9-1d8037d4dd4e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But what else is there under $20,000? Well, there is always the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar in stainless steel. The watches above are all about distilling out complication in favor of getting the details exactly so, while this is more about giving the owner a lot of complication for their money. You get a full perpetual calendar from a true manufacture for the same price as the time-only watches found here. This doesn't come without trade-offs though. The case and dial details on the Jaeger are not handled quite as nicely and overall there is a more industrial feel. Additionally, while the movement is complicated, it is not decorated or finished even close to the same level as the Lange, Journe, or Vacheron. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/blog/jaegerlecoultre-master-ultra-thin-perpetual-calendar/">More on this watch here.</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a27b4391-3c57-4df9-bb79-8748a707ca83"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"In Summary"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e27e198e-c800-4471-aa81-d3b88a79d406"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Small Seconds offers the modern incarnation of an extremely traditional Genevan dress watch. The case and dial are expertly appointed, the 38mm size is perfect for a dress watch, and the caliber 4400 is one of the best manually-wound movements out there today. In additional to being beautiful, the 4400 is traditionally constructed and will be serviceable by any well-trained watchmaker, making this an easy watch to maintain for generations. Even against the manufacture's more expensive and complicated offerings, this is THE Vacheron to own.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9e6b293b-ae31-44fb-9199-8c7238a3ff4d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu is a modern dress watch that can work in a variety of settings due to its unique styling. The chrome blue dial has to be seen to be truly appreciated and the tantalum case combines the best qualities of a technical material like titanium and a precious metal like platinum. The case sits beautifully on the wrist and at 39mm the CB can do double-duty as a casual watch. The 18k gold movement is beautiful to look at, but no one but F.P. Journe will be able to service this for you, a potential frustration for owners.  Still, to own a watch this interesting for under $20,000 is really something special.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["89bed93a-dd6f-4d9f-b9fc-75064903a019"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The A. Lange &amp; Söhne Saxonia is a distinctly German take on the basic dress watch. The case is slightly more angular and less ornately appointed than that of a Swiss-style watch. However, it wears well at 37mm – not as small as you would think – and turning the watch over reveals the beautiful Lange caliber. The three-quarter plate construction, gold screwed chatons, and German silver components are all stunning, but difficult for a non-Lange watchmaker to handle. The Saxonia is the least expensive watch from A. Lange &amp; Söhne, and is at the cost of using an older movement without the free-sprung balance you'd find in the manufacture's pricier movements.  Regardless, the Saxonia is every bit a Lange and a beautiful entry-point into a dream brand.</p>\n<p>Although we purposefully selected these watches because of their similarities – manually wound, in-house, work as dress watches, and under $20,000 – they each offer unique ups and downs. We set out on this project thinking we might crown a \"winner,\" but that really wouldn't be appropriate here. There are good reasons to purchase each of these watches, and good reasons why each might not be right for you. At the end of the day, each is a great entry point into one of the best modern manufactures, offering a great combination of aesthetic pleasures and true craftsmanship.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Links"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To learn more about each of these watches, we recommend you visit the manufactures online:</p>\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.alange-soehne.com/timepieces/saxonia/#saxonia/introduction/216032\" target=\"_blank\">A. Lange &amp; Söhne</a></p>\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.fpjourne.com/eu/collections-en-sv-cbleu-1.html/" target=\"_blank\">F.P. Journe</a></p>\n<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.vacheron-constantin.com/en/watches/patrimony/patrimony-traditionnelle-small-seconds-82172-000r-9412/" target=\"_blank\">Vacheron Constantin</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"792d2406-fa0a-4249-8994-c4f5972650e9","container_id":2197,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://cdn.hodinkee.com/uploads/article/hero_image/2197/DSC_1996_copy.jpg","width":1280,"height":720,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":"<p></p>","alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-02-20T20:30:07.195-05:00","updated_at":"2017-04-23T12:46:08.221-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/article/hero_image/2197/DSC_1996_copy.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":20,"slug":"three_on_three","name":"Three On Three","description":"Head-to-head comparisons of three leading watches within a product category.","sort_order":15,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.209-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.515-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/three-on-three-manual-dress-watch","full_title":"Three On Three: Comparing In-House, Manually-Wound Dress Watches Under $20,000","tags":[]}],"currentArticleId":12933}">

ADVERTISEMENT

Titanium watches have taken off in popularity in the past few years. The lightweight metal has been used in watchmaking for at least 50 years, but only recently has it proliferated across brands big and small, at prices high and low. From Rolex's first foray into commercially "available" titanium with the Yacht-Master to more affordable watches from Citizen, Baltic, and others, there are options aplenty.

For this edition of Three on Three, we're talking titanium. With so many titanium watches available, we wanted to narrow it down a bit. So we picked three very different titanium watches under $10,000 and debated their respective merits: the Tudor Pelagos 39, Grand Seiko SBGA 211 "Snowflake," and the Zenith Defy Revival Shadow. With prices ranging from $4,700 to $7,400, each offers a unique take on titanium that feels true to the brand's identity.

They're three distinct watches: a modern tool watch, the best of Japanese craftsmanship, and a retro-cool design piece. They're three watches that show how brands have begun to reimagine titanium as its own material, and not just some cool, lightweight alternative to steel. Tudor has used it to make one of the most popular and functional modern tool watches; for Grand Seiko, it's another way to show off its fine finishing, Spring Drive, and of course, its dial work; for Zenith, it's a modern material fit for retro expression.

best titanium watches under 10,000

Brandon, Jonathan, and Tony debate three of their favorite titanium watches under $10,000. 

It's not just the lighter weight that makes titanium an interesting material for watchmaking. Last year, we wrote about the various properties of titanium that differentiate it from stainless steel; the comments section there even added to the discussion, getting nerdy about a material's modulus of elasticity, thermal conductivity, and costs of manufacturing (thanks, readers!). Check out that article if you want a primer on titanium. While our attraction to heavier things, including watches, is innate, ingrained since the early days of cavemen and cavewomen collectors, that's changing.

Once you get past the initial brain block of slipping on a lightweight, titanium watch, there's a lot to love. With that, enjoy the video, and let's talk about some of our favorite titanium under $10,000.


Tudor Pelagos 39
tudor pelagos 39

What else can be said about the Tudor Pelagos 39?

"It's a wonderful dive watch," James wrote in his A Week on the Wrist. "Useful, well-made, nicely sized, modern, subtle, toolish, and totally wearable. It's the kind of watch that will make others in your collection irrelevant. You should get one, and so should I."

It feels like the purest modern take on the original Tudor Submariner, not only in form, but in purpose. If you're making a modern tool watch to wear every day, of course it'd be in titanium. Lightweight, scratch-resistant, durable titanium. We love Tudor for its modern tool watches, and the Pelagos 39 feels like the most modern, and the most tool watch, of all. Yes, the original Pelagos has been around since 2012, but that was something different, namely a top-spec 500 meter diver with a helium escape valve.

tudor pelagos 39 titanium

The Pelagos 39 is the downsized version of the original, designed to reach a wider audience. It dials back some of the specs: it now has 200 meters of water resistance (still more than enough), no HeV, no self-adjusting sprung clasp, and less of the ultra-matte finish.

But, the Pelagos 39 doesn't cut corners on its way to reaching a bigger market. In his in-depth review, James called the Pelagos 39 the "dad (or mom) diver." He used a few more car metaphors I didn't really understand to drive home the point, but the alliterative name makes sense. The Pelagos 39 is for wearing every day, to the grocery store or soccer practice or maybe even on a run, and while you might not dive quite as much as you used, damn you sure wish you did, right? The Pelagos 39 is there to remind you of the times you had.

titanium tudor pelagos 39 wristshot

It's the most fitting use of titanium by Tudor, the brand that makes modern, affordable tool watches (yes, affordable in the weird world we inhabit where $4,700 is "affordable"; by the way, the Pelagos 39 was introduced at $4,400 in August 2022 and the price has been raised 2x since. It's far from the most egregious price increases we've seen in the past few years, but still. Worth noting.) While the Black Bay and Black Bay 58 (and 54) are heritage watches inspired by vintage Tudor divers, the Pelagos makes no overt references to the past. It's not weighed down (titanium joke!) by the past.

tudor pelagos 39 dial
tudor pelagos 39 titanium case

For the Pelagos 39, Tudor uses grade 2 titanium and the finish is fully matte – the only contrast is the radially brushed ceramic bezel. Grade 2 titanium is all titanium, while Grade 5 titanium is an alloy that also includes aluminum and vanadium. Grade 5 is harder, and you can expect to see it in higher-end manufacturing, while lower-priced options will often use Grade 2. The matte finish leans into the Pelagos 39's unassuming nature as a tool watch. It might've been nice to see polished bevels – as seen on the titanium Yacht-Master, for example – but you get what you get here.

And what you get is, pound for pound, one of the best modern tool watches on the market.

ADVERTISEMENT

Grand Seiko SBGA 211 'Snowflake'
grand seiko sbga 211 snowflake

We said it about the Pelagos 39, but the same goes for the Snowflake: What else can be said? 

Since Grand Seiko introduced the SBGA211 in 2011, it's become the most iconic model in its modern catalog. It has everything that makes Grand Seiko Grand Seiko: Spring Drive movement, hands, indices, and a case that feature asymptotically perfect finishing, and that textured, snowflake-inspired dial. Even the use of titanium is considered, with its lightweight quality meant to match the light flurry of the snowflake dial. It all comes together perfectly. The seconds hand smoothly sweeps over the pile of freshly fallen snow, and because it's so light on your wrist, you're hardly the wiser. With Grand Seiko, design choices often seem in service of making its dials standout, and nowhere does it converge better than with the Snowflake. 

"The Spring Drive Snowflake SBGA211 is a very steadying watch to wear," we wrote in our A Week On The Wrist. "The entire thing seems to have been calculated to create an effect of serenity without boredom; of minimalism without sterility." It's clear, functional, accurate, and beautiful. In 2017, Grand Seiko became its own brand, and the Grand Seiko name and logo shifted from 6 o'clock to the 12 position. Gone is the redundant "Seiko Grand Seiko" of old – and this watch is all the more serene for it.

grand seiko sbga211 snowflake

It's not exactly a tool watch in the traditional sense, but it certainly feels something like a tool for the modern world. It's dressy, it's casual, and with 100 meters of water resistance, should be ready for any splashes you might reasonably encounter on a day-to-day basis. It's a bit chunky depending on your wrist size (dimensions: 41mm diameter, 12.5mm thick, 49mm lug-to-lug), but the lugs curve downward to meet most wrists nicely.

The Snowflake uses Grade 5 titanium, and Grand Seiko manages to show off a bit of its finishing ability, with a mixture of polished and brushed surfaces on the case and bracelet. It uses what Seiko calls its "High Intensity" titanium, which has increased scratch resistance. The variety of finishing is something its two competitors lack, and this finishing comes with purpose: It's thanks to this mix of polished and brushed that the SBGA211 feels so versatile.

grand seiko snowflake sbga211

Like Tudor and the Pelagos, it doesn't feel like Grand Seiko has used titanium for its own sake. It's considered, as it is throughout much of the GS catalog. It makes the watch lightweight like a snowflake. More importantly, it helps to make what might otherwise be a chunky proposition extremely wearable. The Snowflake's accuracy stands apart from the competition because of the Spring Drive movement.

grand seiko snowflake dial macro
grand seiko spring drive movement

But more than just its functionality, the Snowflake has won over enthusiasts because of the purity of its design. The fit and finish of the titanium contribute to this experience. It's what we've come to expect from Grand Seiko, but the Snowflake comes together as a complete package, perhaps better than any other GS. At $6,200, the Snowflake remains one of the best watches around.

ADVERTISEMENT

Zenith Defy Revival 'Shadow'
zenith defy shadow

Unlike the Pelagos 39 and Snowflake, not as much has been said about the Zenith Defy Revival Shadow since its release in March 2023. After bringing back the Defy Revival in 2022, Zenith gave it the titanium treatment. It uses the same silhouette and angular case as the steel Defy Revival, but in completely micro-blasted titanium. The Defy Revival Shadow measures 37mm in diameter and has a distinctive 14-sided bezel and Zenith's ladder bracelet. It makes the Defy undeniably retro, even if the material is modern. Unlike the original Defy line introduced in 1969, which often featured colorful and gradient dials, the new Defy Revival Shadow, true to its name, has a matching matte black dial.

zenith defy revival shadow

The original Defy case, as well as 2022's revival, feature a variety of brushed and polished surfaces, giving the case a lot of structure and character. In the Shadow, the entire case and bracelet are rendered in micro-blasted titanium, giving it all a monolithic look – different surfaces and facets don't catch the light in different ways like the steel Defy, but seem to absorb any light they come into contact with. Using such a modern material in a decidedly retro case is a bold choice, but Zenith says that was deliberate. Back in 1969, the Defy was very retrofuturistic, so I suppose it makes sense that, in 2023, that same idea would manifest itself in a matte titanium watch.

To match the titanium case, the dial is matte black, with the same space-age hour markers with horizontal grooves seen on last year's steel Defy releases. The date is at 4:30, and the hands have a beige-colored Super-Luminova, with lume plots also placed above those hour markers.

zenith defy revival shadow titanium
zenith defy revival shadow on bracelet
zenith defy revival shadow on bracelet

The ladder-style bracelet finishes off the Zenith Defy Revival Shadow's retro look. These are the types of bracelets Zenith should be putting on many of its heritage-inspired watches, and it works here. While the integration into the case isn't seamless, the bracelet itself is a perfect match for the Defy – the cutouts of the ladder make the bracelet even lighter, and it practically disappears on the wrist.

zenith defy revival shadow titanium dial

With an MSRP of $7,400, the Defy Revival Shadow is the most expensive watch in this edition of Three on Three. It's a lot of money for a three-hand watch, even in a material and finish you don't see much. To me, the premium over the Snowflake and Pelagos 39 speaks more to the relative value proposition of those watches than to the Defy Revival being overpriced.

We hope you enjoy our video debate of three of our favorite titanium watches under $10,000!