Editor — Mark Kauzlarich

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Instead, the watch reads as a more matte red – not quite burgundy but trending more that direction than what you'd see on a F40. The strap also matches and gives it a very sporty and casual look, as well as one that works well for a hot, sweaty, and often slightly messy environment like a kitchen. But it's also common for people to swap the straps (and the Titalyt deployants) of their Élégantes to fit the season or their mood, so a strap a watch does not make (in this case at least).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["84fa6c2d-ceac-45ec-b427-9a60f0a05900"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e81278db-4427-4845-8cb7-c93c204d6caa","9e1cac9c-faeb-46f1-9fbe-4a8960fc6294"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Otherwise it's very much the same as a 48mm Titalyt Élégante, a watch that could derisively be called \"just a quartz watch.\" But, with a wait list that's quoted to be over 10 years long despite the brand making approximately 500 of the various Élégantes each year, the Élégante is so much more than \"just a quartz watch.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1752135c-1c35-44b8-8847-affd985761d5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Despite the fact that the brand doesn't put \"Swiss made\" on any of their watches, the Élégante fits the parameters. In fact, I was surprised to find out a few years ago that the watch's quartz movement was also made in Switzerland. Theoretically, it could have been easily (or maybe not so easily) outsourced to some far-flung country that's known for electronics. The idea behind the watch is simple despite its complexity in execution. A rotating sensor in the watch can tell if you stop wearing the watch for 35 minutes. The hands will then stop in place while the internal memory keeps track of the time. Pick the watch up and the weight moves, which sends a signal to drive the motor and reposition the hands to the right time, moving along the shortest path. The battery will last eight to 10 years if worn daily or 18 years if it's in standby mode.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["42da5e36-7693-4f00-9703-bc8d47ea64f9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The last party trick of the Élégante remains the same: the luminous dial. Despite the bright red color of the dial, if you shine a UV light on the watch, you'll see the in-house dial shines brightly with luminous material, much more evenly and less mottled than any other dial of its kind that I've ever seen. That fact is a massive point of pride for F.P. Journe's \"lume team,\" which operates a kind of Skunk Works laboratory in the brand's Les Cadraniers workshop. The work they do for other brands (ones you'd know but I can't mention) is fascinating as well, but you'll just have to take my word for it.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c7ad2b5b-3751-4117-b3e2-9f8e987d9745"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"But here's the catch of the day – er, I mean of buying the watch – and why I love this watch and the story so much. Never content to do something straightforward, François-Paul decided that the watch should be available to VIP customers, but not necessarily VIPs of the brand F.P. Journe. No, if you wanted to buy this new Élégante, there was one person you'd have to cozy up to over a few glasses of wine and (more than) a few great meals: Chef Dominique Gauthier. All allocations went through him for VIP clients of F.P. Journe Le Restaurant, with final approval from François-Paul Journe himself. The price and number of watches being made was not disclosed. I say this all in past tense because the watches were all allocated and delivered (without announcement) in late October ahead of the restaurant’s first anniversary.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d111c164-2aea-41c4-bf67-14e2b04e6270","556821ee-319e-4c7d-a94c-7b5c35482b69"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Were there exceptions to the restaurant VIP rule? Probably, but hopefully very few. As long as I dug into this fun story, I was told that this watch is for supporters of the restaurant, which means that the concentration of clients getting the new Élégante Le Restaurant should be largely in Geneva or among people who travel there frequently for business. And I think that's totally fair.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["09864b11-24e0-470d-affb-483d8d84b70e","099b1087-83b9-4af2-b200-d74987201964"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"A few weeks ago I hosted a talk at the F.P.Journe boutique in SoHo to a number of people who had very little exposure to F.P. Journe as a brand. A lot of people who can afford F.P. Journe are used to the idea that if you have enough money, you can get whatever you like. F.P. Journe is different. They're no longer taking names for their Chronometre Bleu because demand has gotten so high. You'll also have trouble getting on the list for the Élégante, their most affordable watch. And that's totally okay for me. If you just want a watch and can buy it on the secondary market, go for it. A watch like this is about the story – the bottles of wine and jokes told over dinner, the friendships made, and the chance to finally get a fun watch. If you want a souvenir that money can buy, can I interest you in a set of six steak knives with discarded parts from F.P. Journe movements? Because of the high cost making the parts in the first place (plus the knife maker’s cost) even these don’t come cheap, but one client has already ordered 24 knives for their home. The price for those: a wild CHF 4,100 per set.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c651b45f-463f-46f9-b55f-408ff14ac8e3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0af4b492-97c7-408d-92f0-d75f21e946d9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Review of the F.P. Journe Restaurant Élégante Watch","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"dfc29f8f-a4d7-4858-a320-df8016cb3454","container_id":13873,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/a122ec15-2822-46cc-b156-1922ec2817f8/20240902_FPJLeRestaurant_150.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"F.P.Journe élégante Le Restaurant","created_at":"2024-10-29T14:14:39.360-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-29T14:14:39.360-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/a122ec15-2822-46cc-b156-1922ec2817f8/20240902_FPJLeRestaurant_150.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-fpjourne-le-restaurant-elegante","full_title":"Hands-On: F.P. Journe's Year-Old Restaurant Just Earned A Michelin Star; Now You Can Get An Élégante To Go With It – But There's A Catch","tags":["fp-journe","hands-on","elegante","fp-journe-elegante"]},{"id":13887,"slug":"intro-gronefeld-brothers-grone-manueel-one","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"A New Affordable Brand From The Grönefeld Brothers, And The Debut Grøne Manueel One","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-11-07T10:00:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2024-11-05T09:34:03.466-05:00","updated_at":"2024-11-07T10:46:54.642-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Microbrand pricing from two Dutch Indie greats is an enticing prospect for folks who find their main brand releases out of reach.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":26542,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Here's a surprise I never saw coming: the Dutch horological brothers Tim and Bart Grönefeld have just announced not just a new watch, but an entirely new entry-level brand called Grøne, which takes much of the Grönefeld design language and brings it to an affordable price – €2,150. The debut model, called Manueel One, features a salmon tremblage center dial surrounded by a two-step, brushed, rhodium-plated exterior dial with diamond-cut edges, blued hands, and a blue printed exterior track.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bb502b9c-f7ce-4244-82ec-6324cddba8f8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The case, in 316L stainless steel, measures 38.5mm by 10mm thick (9mm without the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal), with a 20mm lug width and a 46mm lug-to-lug. Grøne calls the case shape an evolution of the 1941 case design. The bezel is domed between the lugs and concave on the side of the case. The crown is also like Grönefeld designs, with a conical shape for more comfortable winding. And yes, the movement is a SW-210 manually-wind with 42 hours of power reserve. Grøne has tweaked the movement for better torque according to the brothers' personal tactile preferences.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["63ec4b94-bc50-4fc5-85c9-606e595aac9b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Manueel One will go on sale on November 19, 2024, with deliveries starting December 2024. It's limited to 388 pieces and, as previously mentioned, costs €2,150.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"There's a push and pull between the things I like to review and write about. The aspirational brands and \"grails\" are so fascinating for me because they're almost always going to be out of reach. Even a Grönefeld 1941 Principia – at their lower secondary market prices – is a bit out of my price range. But to see Bart and Tim Grönefeld do a new affordable line of watches feels like it's speaking directly to someone like me. It's the same reason that the M.A.D.1. has been so successful for fans of MB&F that will never afford an LM101. At approximately $2,350, it's much more affordable, though a bit on the high side for a SW-210 movement.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["33ce65e4-a6eb-4849-877c-d84e03996441"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"As a community-building piece and storytelling device, there's a lot to love. The nickname for the new Manueel One is \"Sjef's One\" for Bart and Tim's father Sjef Grönefeld. My grandfather, who got me into watches, had Dutch heritage, so this hits home. The watch also highlights the brand's Dutch roots with the words \"Oldenzaal\" (for the home base of Grönefeld and Grøne) and the word \"Netherlands\" on the dial. The caseback has an engraving with the outline of Oldenzaal and the Dutch proverb \"Zoals het klokje thuis tikt, tikt het nergens\" which translates to \"there's no place like home.\" All this adds up to a watch I'm definitely going to try to buy.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["de8d25bc-3362-462f-a218-fdcc98f51d9f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Playing devil's advocate for a minute, I will be curious to hear how Grönefeld owners will feel about a new affordable brand from the brothers. A common concern for early collectors of any brand is when that brand starts branching out, producing more watches, or drifting away from the core of what they had done (and how it might impact the value of their early pieces). We've seen that it hasn't had any major impact on MB&F prices, so I'm hoping that this might open the door for other brands to target a different bracket of customers.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Grøne Model: Manueel One\n\nDiameter: 38.5mm Thickness: 10mm (9mm without the glass) Case Material: 316L stainless steel Dial Color: Tremblage salmon dial surrounded by a two-step brushed rhodium-plated diamond-cut dial Indexes: Individually hand-applied high-polished diamond-cut baton hour markers, partially overhanging the salmon dial Lume: None Water Resistance: 50m Strap/Bracelet: Calf leather","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["51647ce1-a0a1-4006-b6ec-da66eb14caa5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Sellita SW210 Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds Diameter: 25.6mm Thickness: 3.35mm Power Reserve: 42 hours Winding: Manual, adjusted for torque for a more tactile sensation Frequency: 28,800 vph Jewels: 19 Chronometer Certified: No","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: €2,150 Availability: Available for order on November 19, 2024; deliveries start December 2024 Limited Edition: Yes, 388 pieces\n\nFor more, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://grone.com//" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"e9b3d5e2-0e3c-4bbe-ae67-9e01c07297f6","container_id":13887,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/33d42818-a15b-41ab-85c0-7d9ea8d61b85/Hero_GRONE_ManueelOne_6.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Grönefeld's GRØNE Manueel One","created_at":"2024-11-05T09:34:03.585-05:00","updated_at":"2024-11-05T09:34:03.585-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/33d42818-a15b-41ab-85c0-7d9ea8d61b85/Hero_GRONE_ManueelOne_6.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-gronefeld-brothers-grone-manueel-one","full_title":"Introducing: A New Affordable Brand From The Grönefeld Brothers, And The Debut Grøne Manueel One","tags":["gronefeld","introducing","manual-wind"]},{"id":13869,"slug":"hands-on-mbandf-lm-sequential-flyback","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"MB&F's LM Sequential Flyback – Does More Complication Make For A Better Watch?","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-11-06T11:00:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2024-10-28T15:10:14.147-04:00","updated_at":"2024-11-07T08:34:48.086-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Stephen McDonnell knew that MB&F's first-ever chronograph could have a flyback function; it just took a little while to make it. But when they did, they couldn't just make the same watch as before. We put the two head-to-head.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":14735,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"To answer the question and save you some time, yes. Better is always better. Unless it's not. The movement on the MB&F LM Sequential Flyback is objectively better than an already GPHG-winning masterpiece by one of the brightest minds in modern watchmaking. But that's not all that MB&F changed about the follow-up to the LM Sequential. And that opens up a door to a whole other interesting conversation about what makes a watch good, successful, interesting, or just right for you – a conversation that is applicable even beyond the lofty realm of a $218,000 watch like this.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6c7f25b4-2f39-4bfa-b357-2eba6df6577c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"If this all sounds like a bunch of confusing mumbo-jumbo, I'll wind it back for you. Back in 2022, MB&F launched the LM Sequential EVO, and it was immediately transparent that the chronograph – with a design never before seen or considered in watchmaking – was a watershed movement for MB&F and the industry at large. Max Büsser called the man behind the movement for the watch, Belfast-based complications specialist Stephen McDonnell, the only genius he had ever met in his life. After meeting McDonnell at Dubai Watch Week last year and watching him <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-most-amazing-watch-talk-ive-ever-witnessed-watchmaker-stephen-mcdonnell-on-obsessing-over-detail/" target=\"_blank\">give the most interesting watchmaking presentation I've ever seen in my life</a>, I can't argue with Büsser. McDonnell sees the world in a way very few ever have.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3516b846-8fe2-4844-95fc-588d0aff9656"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Büsser always said that he wouldn't do a chronograph the same way other people approached it, but I wouldn't have ever imagined this. This is essentially two chronographs in one watch. Both the left and right sides of the case feature normal chronograph pushers with a running display at around nine o'clock on the dial and a 30-minute counter above it at around 11 o'clock. \n\nEach can be operated independently, but that would be a bit inconvenient to use as a split-second chronograph. But the pusher at nine o'clock – the \"Twinverter\" – can be used to simultaneously flip the state of both chronographs. If one is running and the other is not, they switch. If both are off, you can start them (or vice versa). ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["84e0d8fa-cf7f-460a-ad44-435b1e4a1ff0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"At six o'clock, you still have a small time-telling display with two tiny luminous hands. Above it all is a giant balance. But a chronograph wreaks havoc on any balance. Activating a chronograph can result in a 30º drop in amplitude, which impacts accuracy. Having two chronographs on one balance would be a drop of 60º, which would destroy all functionality for timekeeping. McDonnell solved that all ingeniously, and if technical stories are your thing, then you can head over to this early <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-mechanical-method-behind-the-madness-of-the-mbandf-sequential-evo/" target=\"_blank\">In-Depth on the innovation.</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1132c72f-d2af-4d0f-b3f7-74a4728d8e63"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"One under-discussed part of the creation of the LM Sequential EVO is the fact that it was an EVO – MB&F's term for their more sporty cases with an integrated rubber strap, galvanic black dials with Super-LumiNova, the \"FlexRing\" shock protection system, and higher water-resistance. As much as I love dress chronographs from folks like Patek (give me a 5004, and I'll cash out from watches forever), a sporty case for a brand's first chronograph made sense. But even at the time of its release, Büsser and his team knew it wasn't the final evolution.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"In comes the LM Sequential Flyback, announced in June of this year, just over two years after the release of the EVO. As much as things change, some things remain the same. Giant balance. Twinverter system. The watch had it all and then some – the \"then some\" is a new flyback mechanism for both chronographs.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["e52a7834-01ee-4de4-b2e9-93873f0b5dbb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"But what it didn't have anymore is the EVO case. Instead, the watch returned to the original LM (Legacy Machine) design language. For as much as the Horological Machines of MB&F have been the über avant-garde torch bearers for the brand, the Legacy Machines are slightly – ever so slightly – more glued to the history of watchmaking. Despite their domed shape and displayed mechanisms above the dial platine, there are a lot of cues from traditional independent watchmaking. Those become a lot more apparent when you flip the watch over.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a5eaa545-a533-4046-8f8a-01854fae0a3a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I don't know of anyone who makes a watch with such giant gearing, and if you compare this wheel (the intermediate wheel in the gear train) to that of the same part in a watch like the Omega Caliber 321, it's almost comically oversized. However, there are a lot of hallmarks of traditional watchmaking that have been carried over from the LM1 designed by Jean-Francois Mojon and Kari Voutilainen, with Geneva stripes and anglage. But it's much more interesting and complex in a way only a chronograph could be.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2f9fe0a9-9f10-49ed-b0ab-163e1ebbdb07"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The new movement is upped from 59 jewels to 63, a ridiculous number but not for the sake of ridiculousness as has seemingly become the movement design feature du jour to show \"quality.\" I could go on and on but more jewels doesn't always mean a better movement, it just means a movement with more jewels. \n\nIn this case, to incorporate the flyback (instant-reset function) that was originally designed for pilots in the 1930s, Stephen McDonnell had to do some extensive reworking of the movement's operating levers and hammers. He got so close to having that sorted for the LM Sequential EVO but only finished one of the two chronograph trains.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4b57ae2e-eed3-4441-879c-2a3515d7a2c4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["77a4ca51-2e86-4074-830a-a8c1ad3af976"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"There are other subtle tweaks as well, most obviously the power reserve indicator, but only the arrow pointing from full to empty. The new LM Sequential Flyback has a very soft and classic hand, whereas the EVO has an arrow, as you'll see below. I don't think this makes a massive difference in the grand scheme of things, but it shows that MB&F was at least thoughtful about the tweaks that they could make to differentiate the two releases.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ebe36a87-81b9-44e8-b280-318e83eb711e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9316a84b-40c2-452d-98ab-e298948d4efe"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Then, we get to the aesthetics of the dial side. The LM Sequential EVO followed in the footsteps of releases that started in 2020 with the LM Perpetual EVO. As a part of that development, in addition to the shock-absorbing FlexRing system, the EVO watches went with a \"dark side\" appearance that retained the colorful dial plate but had black galvanic discs with sans-serif fonts, all flattened to the same plane, with luminous hands for various displays that needed them. Interestingly, the LM Sequential EVO was the first time that MB&F released an EVO before the \"mainline\" LM. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The new LM Sequential Flyback goes back to white lacquered dials with a domed effect on the rings. The font returns to the serif display, and the Roman numerals for the time-telling dial also return.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["cb5523f3-8a14-478e-8428-511661b7309e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"That time-telling dial is back on an incline, making it easier to read the time from an angle while keeping the big display out of the way of the chronograph display. It's really remarkable how much of a difference it makes to tone down the sportiness despite the complexity of the dial side.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b16d93c5-cc84-4e71-b5a0-7be6ad8d3fec"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["751e4513-0710-405b-80c0-61b0df2a3f0c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"There are a few other small tweaks between the two. The Twinverter on the EVO has a raised ridge that allows you better purchase, and you can tell the difference between pushers by feeling if you're not looking at what you're doing. On the Flyback, the lower pushers both have the word \"Flyback\" embossed into them. But looking at the case from the side, you can see what I consider the biggest difference between the two.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["776cd777-4b6a-4823-86fd-7980d2044642"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["13c69f22-9eff-496b-92ad-b86ba9e80082"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The EVO case might be one of the most successful design accomplishments the brand has had over the years. By moving to a sleeker case shape, they've made a watch that hugs the wrist super well, and even at 44mm by 18.2mm, the EVO will even fit people with smaller wrists than my 7.25 in. size. In zirconium – lighter than stainless steel but more durable than titanium – and with an integrated strap, the watch might be the best wearing \"big\" watch on the market. With 80m of water resistance, you could, in good conscience, at least take it in a pool without much worry.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f0d6384b-abd3-4313-aa13-2ae38e260735"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The size of the new LM Sequential Flyback is the same, but now cased in platinum with screwed lugs and a more traditional case shape, it both looks remarkably different on the wrist and wears a lot heavier. You're not going to take it in the pool with 30m of water resistance (not unless you have unlimited funds for repairs). Yes, it's better, but in some ways, it's also not. It's a watch that does more (technically) while also doing less (physically). This prompted me to consider a question more significant than the improved movement: Which of the two represents the most authentic feeling experience for the watch's design?","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6dffaa52-7eda-4727-82a7-a0aa99638d30"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6fef1588-ebd5-4eb8-928f-b20bfa0bdeff"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"There's no right answer. Sure, a chronograph should be sporty, and the EVO does that. If I were to consider buying a watch that costs as much as a house (in some of America, at least), I'd be looking for one that can do it all, at least in some regard. \n\nIs it a watch that I can wear in various circumstances, from a summer vacation on a beach to a meetup with watch friends to a fancy dinner with important folks in my life (or beyond)? If that's the case, I could say the EVO would be a better choice, but it starts to push the bounds of believability in a few of those scenarios. For that matter, so does the Flyback, which isn't going to pass for a dress watch in almost any circumstance, no matter the case shape or dial type.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9430e2c7-8957-4b44-a0b0-00b9afa4c0c6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Someone pointed out to me that there's an entirely different way to think about buying watches for those lucky enough to do so at a level like this. Buy something hyper-specific – an EVO if you want a sporty avant-garde watch or a Flyback for something more classic and precious – with no expectation that it can do everything. 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A lot has changed since we last visited the Japanese manufacturer, but likely no change has been more dramatic and impactful than the inauguration of the brand's new home of mechanical watchmaking – Studio Shizukuishi – on July 20, 2020. If you read the first story expecting to see inside Shizukushi, I'm sorry to have kept you waiting, but the day is finally here.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f0148aee-387a-41d3-9d80-45aa4938c149"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Part of what seems to have captivated fans regarding the new space is not just the mechanical watchmaking. Sure, that selling point for the brand has hit new heights with the new \"Kodo\" Constant Force Escapement (which is actually assembled in Ginza) and 9SA4 manual-wind high beat movement. But there's something so captivating about the way the Studio Shizukuishi connects so cleanly with the environment that inspires so much of Grand Seiko's recent work. Much of this is thanks to famed Japanese architect Kengo Kuma who designed the space for Grand Seiko.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6dc09eaa-50f0-4e29-b903-09bbbc2f4af2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"So, that's where we'll start in Part 2. Later, we'll also get a brief look inside the Seiko Museum back in Ginza, which is much easier to visit if you're on a short trip to Tokyo and well worth your time. Hopefully, if you're not able to get to Japan, this will give you a sense of what makes Grand Seiko so special in the modern landscape of watchmaking.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Day 3: Studio Shizukuishi (And Far, Far Too Many Noodles)"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["35c43a42-77b4-46a5-afdf-c0ffd745e249"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"If you haven't realized by now, Grand Seiko is incredibly proud of their company's heritage and every place we've visited thus far has a little taste of that history to educate visitors, and yes, they do take visitors. Studio Shizukuishi is open to the public on Thursdays and Fridays, but to get there you'll either make the six-hour drive or two-and-a-half hour train ride to Morioka station in Iwate Prefecture and then take around a 20-30 minute cab ride to the studio. 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The photo of the studio that I posted above was taken by diligently standing on a spot painted on the blacktop, where the picture is perfectly framed for cell phone (or other) photography. It shows how much thought went into the experience at Studio Shizukuishi. The exterior and interior walls are lined with local red pine with the traditional Japanese yamato-bari technique. Those boards are placed unevenly, emphasizing the play of light and shadow.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"In Japan, forests cover 70% of the country's land – and yes, that includes the white birch forests that have been a major inspiration for Grand Seiko. The north-facing windows overlook the 6,686-foot Mount Iwate, which, though 12 miles away, is sometimes visible on rare clear days. Grand Seiko has emphasized harmony with nature in more than just architecture. A large majority of the land they own for their facilities outside Morioka has been committed to retaining its natural state.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ec8105bb-7ee6-4860-8f08-68af4e5fb6d7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5a326211-c36e-4e3b-b416-52a99e0ebb3a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["68ba954d-8179-415f-bdb8-7cad556047dd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["25b7b3ed-b217-4680-9795-6f46863db348"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f9bc9816-813c-4a7c-b816-5216d74442a4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["75aa8b16-c48c-4fa9-a7f4-98a39a815041"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0c0a72f5-8d4d-4a44-9b29-64044c01c5c1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Back inside, we got to the nuts and bolts – or rather plates and screws – of mechanical watchmaking. 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Grand Seiko did a great job of giving us some exposure to the cultural landscape that inspires Grand Seiko. After our morning tour at Shizukuishi, they took us on afternoon trips around Morioka near the studio. But first, lunch. Wanko soba, to be exact.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c3f062f6-00d5-4e00-bc7d-d2ada6949eb1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"One thing I mentioned in Part 1 is that Grand Seiko did a good job of putting the work they do in the larger framework of Japanese culture. Most of that broader cultural experience came on Day 3, and I'll get to the substantive parts in a minute. But wanko soba will haunt my dreams for a while.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d2792faf-c086-4d75-bfb1-c7bf123d1226"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Here's the long and short of it. Wanko soba (wanko is a regional word for a wooden bowl) is a style of Japanese soba noodles originally from Iwate Prefecture. The tour group went to Azumaya, where we sat at a table with a large bowl with a lid, some garnishes and meat options, and a group of waitresses came to the table dumping small cups of noodles in our bowl. The goal was either to enjoy lunch or eat as much soba as possible. We all took bets on how much we could eat and, after hearing there was a special certificate for finishing 100 bowls, I set that as my goal. The empty cups were stacked 15 high and the noodles kept coming and coming until you placed the lid back on your bowl. Then you were done – no going back.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["60714337-26af-4c36-b984-67e6019b8ca3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Well, I hit 100 bowls (and a few beers) in a bit over 28 minutes. But I didn't pace myself – a rookie move. One of the Grand Seiko team members bested me by a handful of bowls. They went much slower and could keep things moving at a better pace. I was still both weirdly, immensely proud, and incredibly regretful. But I returned with a certificate and a little wooden medallion to remember that pride and regret.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e0010dd0-583a-4a9f-b6a1-7af6c61d4a83"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"To walk it off, we got to explore a bit more of Morioka, starting with the Morioka Hachimangu Shrine, a Shinto shrine that was originally established in 1062, then was rebuilt in 1593 by the Nanbu clan to be the protective shrine for Morioka Castle. The shrine burned down and was rebuilt in 1884, with the main structure dating only to 2006. But it was a good place for my exposure to the practices of the Shinto religion and the cultural Shinto practices of many Japanese.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["94a0e7d2-13dd-4ec4-956f-9b4dff87c60a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f0f4f4a2-285e-4f14-9498-656b6599ad57"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["405bb76a-5981-484e-a286-99d87f84ff66"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e65cc771-eea6-46b0-b738-a2267cb48dcf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6db89f61-96b7-415d-800e-055ab31b1d56"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6ffba00f-4150-4000-9865-272c34f5e0c5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8187d2ef-e0ad-44f9-b49f-9e2bc8c22a78","ea0260b0-f81f-4172-9212-e216dd1896cf"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Next we visited a local landmark, an historic home and also great place for influencers (or just normal folks, I'm not sure who was who) to take some beautiful photos of the gardens and what these historic homes would have looked like. But there was actually a Grand Seiko connection we discovered inside.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["eb04259b-ef75-4452-887b-0197661be226"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4176feec-7d45-4c2c-8665-559b190f81f2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["aa603198-71a1-4d4e-aa5b-06a4dee54727"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fc2e332e-b91b-4dc5-aae5-016ec21a0000"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2c11d906-e4fe-482b-86c9-9e14a9a0172d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bfc4e553-5612-43d2-a23e-d1c54cb7a4d5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["88037a02-dfb0-4d25-89d4-588c13885cf7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Day 4: The Seiko Museum"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["86fddae9-dbfc-43e1-8a6c-a59d99c9a9e2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"At the start of day four, we made our way back to the big city of Tokyo. I spent an extra week in Tokyo after the tour and I think it's hard to describe, even if you look at a map, how truly massive the city is. When I went down to Yokohama, there was no sense of where Tokyo ends and anything else begins.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"After the morning travel, we arrived in Ginza for a tour of the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://museum.seiko.co.jp/en//" target=\"_blank\">Seiko Museum</a>. The museum has recently started going through renovations which started with the Grand Seiko's floors. 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If you know the brand, you'll know their inventions, and the \"Invention Pieces\" that have celebrated these achievements have often iterated on the tourbillon, and this is no exception. What all started with the 30º double tourbillon led us to this: an incredibly wearable monopusher chronograph (a flyback, no less, and their first chronograph) and their first-ever flying tourbillon. But that's not all that's going on here.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9c25e02f-68d7-4a24-9038-404344693f9f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This watch, in a 37.9mm by 10.49mm white gold case with tantalum bezel and display caseback ring, also features a constantly-running seconde foudroyante (or lightning seconds) that subdivides each second into six parts based on the 3Hz tourbillon cage. It's also directly tied to the tourbillon, sitting on top of the case that rotates once every 60 seconds while maintaining a vertical orientation. By tying directly to the oscillations of the tourbillon, Greubel Forsey has eliminated the number of extra components for the normal foudroyante drive train, keeping the movement small (31mm in diameter) and relatively low on parts (428 total).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["905c4f1a-116e-41ab-b242-81a7f71dab43"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["de15989b-8513-46ee-9f8b-9ec08d810e80"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Of course, there are limitations. The watch has a 24-hour power reserve with the chronograph running (they haven't shared the total power reserve without the chronograph activated). The other limitation, no pun intended, is that the incredibly expensive CHF 465,000 Nano Foudroyante EWT will only be made in 11 pieces. However, each piece will get all the hand-finishing that Greubel Forsey has been known for among collectors for a long time.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["1dc66bce-41e8-4693-a14a-551b59f7a6c4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Money and access being no option, this watch is in my top three pieces I'd buy that came out this year. It might even be the first place I plop down an imaginary credit card, sweating with excitement about feeling like I'd robbed a bank and got away with something incredible (and no, not the one I'd have to rob to afford this watch). \n\nLet's put the price aside for a second. If you know the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://imageresizer.com/meme-generator/edit/vince-mcmahon-reaction-wglowing-eyes/" target=\"_blank\">Vince McMahon meme</a>, I think it perfectly describes the reactions I got when I described this watch to my colleagues. Only 37.9mm wide? You have my attention on that alone. Just 10.49mm thick? I think I like it. Monopusher chronograph? Sign me up. With a flying tourbillon and seconde foudroyante direct to the tourbillon cage? What are we even talking about anymore? This is nutty.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ffd5ea93-6f26-4b73-8a6a-57144e6c580f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"As I mentioned, the size alone is remarkable. I will say that despite being only 10.49mm thick, it does sit a bit high on the wrist because of the lug placement, shape, and length. The tantalum case back ring and sapphire caseback add dimension to the back that lifts it off the wrist, and the tantalum bezel and domed front crystal also add to the depth. While it's slightly more modern width-wise, it kind of reminds me of a Patek ref. 5004 (12.8 mm thick) in the way that it just sits higher on the wrist. But I'd take both all day, every day.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["64f78b18-0f5f-42fd-b3df-4ae38f484549"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"When I told Ben Clymer about this watch, he told me this is the kind of thing that watch lovers, and, specifically, the target market of Greubel Forsey, would have gone crazy over 10 years ago. Since then, I think Greubel has slightly fallen off the radar. I mean, we are talking about an approximately $540,000 watch, so the number of clients is pretty narrow, but there are more people out there buying at that level than you think. Yet, in two years of traveling the world to high-end collectors' gatherings, I've only ever seen two Greubel Forseys worn on the wrist, and both were at IAMWATCH in Singapore earlier this month. What happened?","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["35c6b34d-0f63-410e-bd9d-d16eb2ba2574"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Greubel Forsey has struggled to find itself the past few years amidst a world where hype has driven buyers to more prominent names. They've also rapidly expanded, doubling the 130 pieces/year in 2021 to 260 just a year later in 2022. They also (seemingly briefly) attempted to move \"downmarket\" with some simpler releases, but even those were ridiculously complicated and in the six figures. Plus, there are two distinct design languages within Greubel Forsey. \n\nWhile the Convexe line might attract more modern buyers, it butts up against Richard Mille, which (quality and watchmaking aside) scratches the same itch at a similar price but is easier to get (a funny thing to say about a hard-to-get watch but still) with 5,600+ pieces made a year. But this – this is exactly what Greubel Forsey needs right now. It's also – as I've said – absolutely outrageous in all respects.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["16171995-512e-473d-a8b8-7fcb8c4b6970"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I won't get deep into Greubel's \"nanomechanics\" and \"nanojoule-scale\" energy management. There's just not enough information for me to understand if that's true or just marketing speak. I think it's maybe worth a follow-up with Stephen Forsey to better understand this all (we'll see if we can make this happen). \n\nBut even the singular achievement of a seconde–foudroyante (one of my favorite complications) that splits each second into six parts driven directly by the 3 Hz balance wheel – that's pretty fantastic. According to GF, a traditional foudroyante consumes 30μJ (microjoules) per jump, while the Nano Foudroyante uses only 16nJ (nanojoules) per jump, representing a massive leap in efficiency. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d38b9e15-2fe0-42d9-9d97-87fd3423644f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In quintessential GF form, every part of the new Nano Foudroyante EWT movement is immaculately finished, from the column wheel for the chronograph to the extensive mix of frosting, mirror-polishing, and chamfering. At first, I thought the location and size of the bridges distracted from what you'd normally want to see from a chronograph – the mass of gears and levers that make it all work – but over time; I realized that this is gorgeous in its simplicity.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"I also can say that, while this is probably the most complicated watch Greubel Forsey has been sitting on, it's not the only one that will excite brand fans. There's more to come. Yes, this is all outrageously expensive, but there will be 11 people out there who will get one of the coolest and most impressive watches I've seen this year.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT; 37.9mm diameter by 10.49mm thick white gold case with tantalum bezel and caseback ring; 30m water resistance. Multi-level dial in gold, rhodium-colored, engraved and black lacquered hour-ring and minute-circle with a visual opening for the tourbillon, small seconds and chronograph minutes counter in gold, polished bevel; Foudroyante, frosted, fractions of seconds engraved and black lacquered; Hours, minutes, lightning seconds tied to a flying one-minute tourbillon, monopusher chronograph. Hand-wound movement running at 3 Hz with 24 hours of power reserve with the chronograph running. Non-animal material, hand-sewn strap; White gold pin buckle, hand-engraved GF logo; Price: CHF 465,000 (Approximately $540,000 at time of publication). 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The watches, with their three-dimensional domed design reminiscent of MB&F's half-above/half-below Legacy Machine line, still have a sonnerie au passage chime that dings once an hour as the minute hand passes the top of the hour. Now, they also come with a slightly more classic dial platine in a laser-etched, barleycorn-esque guilloché pattern.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["44199bee-9be1-4c62-8a89-472b4fc897d2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"That is a whole heck of a lot of French watchmaking terms for a watch that clocks in at $4,225 on a strap and $4,540 on a bracelet. At that price, you shouldn't be surprised to hear that – as I just said – the dial pattern is not engine-turned like true guilloché (no long debates needed about how long the guilloché takes), but the choice of gold, green, silver, or blue dials still has that effect, radiating from the time-telling subdial at 12 o'clock. That subdial now has Roman numerals, leaning into the \"classic\" namesake.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["392b7252-bc64-42f9-a33a-365f53c1ad82"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The watch still measures 41mm by 13mm thick with a 48mm lug-to-lug and 22mm lug width, with a titanium case. The chime dings a crisp D note at the top of the hour, powered by the FS01 manually wound movement (a Sellita SW-200 base), with 38 hours of power reserve. If you want to learn more about the development, you can refer to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-c1-bel-canto/" target=\"_blank\">past coverage</a>. The watches aren't a limited edition but a part of the new C1 core lineup and are available for order, with delivery expected in two months. The price is $4,225 for the strap with a deployant Bader clasp and $4,540 for a titanium bracelet.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"I covered the original <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-c1-bel-canto/" target=\"_blank\">Bel Canto back in January of 2023</a> as a great value proposition for chiming watches that have otherwise largely been relegated to the tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars. Sure, it's no minute repeater, and yes, the chime is a bit quiet (a slightly flat D6 on my sample) and only happens once per hour, but it still was a watch that has won over a lot of fans for CW. \n\nThere's something charming about any mechanical chiming watch at an affordable price. It even won the Petite Aiguille award at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (best watch under 8,000 CHF) that year. But the rollout of the watch went less than smoothly. People had given deposits and kept facing delays due to production issues. Others got the wrong color after their long wait. Representatives at Christopher Ward told me they know things could have gone better. That's why they've changed more than just the dial here.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["afbb970b-93f0-42f7-b0e6-2d5d7903c765","30564bf8-d48d-4f70-aaca-31ee816efb30"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Christopher Ward told me that customers for the Classic will receive their watches just two months after launch, and the goal is to be at a consistent in-stock position by the end of February. Not all customers will be convinced and time will tell if that happens, but they seem to understand that they have a bit of an uphill battle to win back trust. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"As for the watch itself, I actually got a glimpse of the guilloché pattern during my first interviews with the brand last year and was told it was one possibility they were considering. Then I spoke to someone else at the brand who essentially told me that such a thing wasn't possible – that it would be too busy of a design when mixed with the bridges and exposed chiming components. I don't know if they were trying to get me off the trail of something I saw, but I've kept my mouth shut, waiting for this moment.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["69d8a14a-5aa5-4726-925a-bfaf06416eab"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In person, the visual experience of the watch just works. From what I saw in images ahead of the launch, I was sure that the blue and green dials would be a bit too vibrant and would clash with the guilloché pattern. It turns out that (in the case of the green, at least) there's almost a lizard-scale rainbow quality to the pattern that softens the color in person. It's much less uniform or punchily vibrant than I expected from the \"soldier\" straight-on product shots. I can only imagine the same would go for the other colors (though in the lifestyle images the brand provided, I still think the blue could be a touch toned back). ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"I also don't know that the Roman numerals work that well or are necessary. They may be too on the nose as a reference to MB&F's Legacy Machine line (which could be said about the whole thing). Either way, my best guess is we'll see more experimentation in the coming year in this vein, and it's a great complementary option for what I think is Christopher Ward's most successful and innovative product in years.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Christopher Ward Model: C1 Bel Canto Classic\n\nDiameter: 41mm Thickness: 13mm Lug-to-Lug: 48mm Case Material: Grade 5 Titanium Dial Color: Gold, green, silver, or blue laser-etched guilloché pattern Indexes: Roman numerals on a time-telling subdial Lume: None Water Resistance: 30m Strap/Bracelet: Seta leather straps with deployant Bader clasp, with an increased taper from 22mm down to 16mm, or Grade 2 titanium Bader bracelet","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["05b62c72-b890-4a24-8607-c515bbd12f48"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: FS01 (Sellita SW200-1 base) Functions: Hours, minutes, passing chime with on/off pusher Power Reserve: 38 hours Winding: Manual Jewels: 29 Chronometer Certified: No Additional Details: Chime in the key of D (D6 note)","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: $4,225 on strap and $4,540 on bracelet Availability: Now Limited Edition: No\n\nFor more, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christopherward.com/int/bel-canto-watches-1/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"UNDER EMBARGO UNTIL 31ST OCTOBER 08:00AM GMT","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"be5dbf75-2a28-483b-b891-9a9a7f598409","container_id":13862,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/3503335f-b8c0-4a06-9333-8590e564a8e0/C1BelCantoClassic4.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"christopher ward bel canto","created_at":"2024-10-23T12:39:03.440-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-31T09:22:21.400-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/3503335f-b8c0-4a06-9333-8590e564a8e0/C1BelCantoClassic4.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-christopher-ward-bel-canto-classic","full_title":"Introducing: The Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Classic With Laser-Etched Guilloché Pattern","tags":["christopher-ward","introducing","bel-canto"]},{"id":13877,"slug":"introducing-tudor-pelagos-fxd-gmt","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Tudor And The Marine Nationale Go Worldwide With The Pelagos FXD GMT 'Zulu Time'","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-10-30T08:46:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-10-30T08:34:28.327-04:00","updated_at":"2024-10-30T09:12:30.570-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"An FXD for the skies. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":69605,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"At 12:00 Zulu Time, Tudor went hot with a new Pelagos FXD, a watch originally developed with the French Naval special forces unit Commando Hubert as a purpose-built tool for underwater navigation and buddy diving. That watch became a platform for a variety of releases, including sailing chronographs, cycling chronographs, and a bunch of others. Tudor has now gone back to the core inspiration for another watch built for the rigors of the Aéronautique Navale with a new GMT version of the Pelagos FXD.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["eed0e91d-0244-458f-ba94-015edf7f59f7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Cased in Grade 2 titanium, measuring 42mm by 12.7mm with a 52mm lug-to-lug fixed strap-bar design, the watch looks and feels similar to several previous Tudor releases, all combined into one tough-looking package. The watch features a matte black dial and beige applied indices (with blue emission lume), an orange GMT hand (with green emission lume matching the GMT bezel), and red accents for the product name on the dial. The bezel is also in titanium with a ceramic bi-directional GMT insert. The caseback features the engraving \"M.N.24\" (Marine Nationale 2024) as a callback to the original military-issued Tudors of the '70s and '80s.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c8961fc5-0d08-48b1-910f-dce548a1f39c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["44d6206a-e82a-4ea6-97d9-548ed3ec9bc6","69844d00-e5e4-4d3c-a442-1e720d51083c"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Inside, you'll find the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U automatic \"flyer\" GMT movement with 65 hours of power reserve and an independent jumping hour GMT hand. It's also METAS-certified. The watch comes on a \"flight-suit green,\" one-piece fabric strap with a grade 2 titanium pin buckle and keeper. It also has an extra removable fabric keeper with the French Naval Aviation roundel if you really want to lean into the French military theme. The watch is listed at $4,625 and isn't a limited edition.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"When Tudor started teasing this release, I was pretty certain it would be a titanium version of the FXD Chrono platform because of the emphasis they put on helicopters. A flyback chronograph for pilots would have made a lot of sense and shown the breadth of what the Marine Nationale and, specifically, the Commando Hubert do on a mission basis, including airborne insertions. On the other hand, the Pelagos FXD GMT makes a lot of sense as a complementary tool for every member of the team, especially when they're operating boots dry or just on station in a land-based combat zone.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8d4e2c5b-f72f-4728-867c-501de57d40ed"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"My immediate reaction to the image on Instagram was that I had to get one as soon as possible. I regret not picking up the original Pelagos FXD with the M.N.21 caseback upon release, and as someone who wears a GMT almost daily, I've been waiting for the right Tudor GMT to join the collection. This is like a mashup of that original FXD M.N. and the LHD (Left-Hand Drive). When I saw it was the older MT5652 movement, I paused. It's a solid movement, with a flyer GMT, but the Black Bay Pro has that same movement and an interesting design but falls on the chunkier side. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The new Pelagos FXD GMT feels more reasonable, with a wider 42mm case but thinner at 12.7mm (versus 14.6mm for the Pro), which isn't too far off from my Rolex 126710BLRO. The larger case size might also balance out nicely with the Grade 2 Titanium. I'm going to wait to reserve final judgment (and payment) until I finally get my hands on one in person, but even more importantly, we should get a follow-up from Hodinkee's King of Tudor, James Stacey, as soon as he can get his Pelagos-loving hands on one. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2fb65293-8b10-40f1-8853-3c03f29683d9","2dd576cc-735a-4b35-9620-8d1ea51cb878"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["da2c1a54-3bcf-431d-81c3-c63f7f4a6040"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Tudor Model: Pelagos FXD GMT Reference Number: 2542G247NU\n\nDiameter: 42mm Thickness: 12.7mm Lug-to-Lug: 52mm Case Material: Grade 2 titanium Dial Color: Matte black Indexes: Beige applied hour markers with matching \"Snowflake\" handset Lume: Blue and green emission Super-LumiNova Water Resistance: 200mm Strap/Bracelet: Flight-suit green one-piece fabric strap with grade 2 titanium pin buckle and keeper; extra removable fabric keeper with the French Naval Aviation roundel","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1aba74b3-4701-45bc-8ba1-0e63805b9446"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, flyer GMT Diameter: 31.8mm Thickness: 7.5mm Power Reserve: 65 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph Jewels: 28 jewels Chronometer Certified: Yes, METAS certification","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: $4,625 Availability: Immediately Limited Edition: No\n\nFor more, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.tudorwatch.com/en/watches/pelagos-fxd/m2542gxx7nu-0002/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. 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