Editor — Rich Fordon

</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/zenith-x-voutilainen-x-phillips/CH080322/21/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">a unique 11th watch sold</a> for CHF 315,000 with the proceeds benefitting charity.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Especially in light of these modern collaboration pieces, vintage Zenith is a definite bargain. This real deal vintage 35mm chronometer-certified wristwatch is just sitting on eBay for under $4,000. And the watch is in seemingly great condition! I asked for a quick, informal check from Zenith's heritage department and received a thumbs up, the numbers check out and date the watch to 1954.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b3e9a651-4b9e-4f3e-9872-3721ba49c185"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"An eBay seller out of North Miami Beach has listed this Zenith for buy it now price of $3,999 and you have the option to make an offer. The full listing is <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ebay.com/itm/156284829651/" target=\"_blank\">right here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1920s Cartier Rectangular Wristwatch"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8f6e3fa3-4cc3-4ae5-a9d2-e819fd775155"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The vintage Cartier train keeps on moving down the tracks it seems. Every week when I go to put together Bring A Loupe, something Cartier and interesting materializes. This one, at an auction house in London with varying reviews based on a few friends I asked, is rare. Described as 1920s in the listing, I estimate production of the watch to be in the mid to late 1920s so, they're spot on there. The model is an odd ball. In this period, very few models really even had a name from Cartier, even the Tank Normale was not yet the Tank Normale as we know it now. The brand was approaching watchmaking from the perspective of a jeweler, making various shapes and sizes that pleased their customers in some way.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"I am intrigued by this piece of Cartier history as it seems to be something of a predecessor to the Tank Basculante, introduced in 1933. The overall case shape and movement are very similar to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/cartier-lot-290-225?browse_all=1&page=1&q=cartier+cabriolet\%22 target=\"_blank\">the now more recognizable and collectible Basculante</a>. I have a sneaking suspicion that this model, whatever we want to call it, had a heavy influence on the design of the Basculante.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["0f332d29-7b69-4c6c-9e26-bb139e6804df"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"As with most Cartier watches from this period, condition and originality is hard to say with certainty. Based on my reading of the catalog description, I believe the case and movement numbers match which is really important. The originality of the dial, on the other hand, I won't make a claim on – I would really need to view the watch in person or speak to someone who has.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This \"pre-Basculante\" Cartier wristwatch is <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/auction-catalogues/hattongardenauctionsltd/catalogue-id-hatton10076/lot-09693c48-70b9-4324-9dce-b1f100c7a405/" target=\"_blank\">lot 5B</a> of the PRESTIGE WATCH & LUXURY DIAMONDS + VARIOUS UNCLAIMED SAFE DEPOSIT CONTENTS AUCTION at Hatton Garden Auction<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/auction-catalogues/hattongardenauctionsltd/catalogue-id-hatton10076/lot-09693c48-70b9-4324-9dce-b1f100c7a405/" target=\"_blank\">s</a>. At time of publishing, bidding had reached 5,000 GBP.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1970s Heuer Monza Ref. 150.501"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["479de250-c57e-4f0d-86ff-b5df6322a5b2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Heuer Monza was a late 1970s model introduced during the expansion of the brand's catalog following the development of the caliber 11 automatic chronograph and its successors. As we should all know by now, the Monaco was the first Heuer to feature this movement and was launched in 1969. But lost in the mix of Heuer history are models like the Monza, which were the result of taking the technology of the Monaco and integrating it into automatic chronograph wristwatches with various looks and shapes. Don't believe me? Look up some of the other forgotten late 1970s models. Ever heard of the Heuer Cortina? Jarma? How about the Heuer Daytona? Among the group, the Monza is my favorite.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This eBay example is in solid condition with a bit of wear to the black-coated case but nothing too major and a nice patina to the lume on the dial and in the hands. I appreciate that it comes with a box and warranty booklet but I do not appreciate a previous owner writing notes on the warranty! Couldn't they find a legal pad or even a post it note?","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"An eBay seller out of Redondo Beach, California, has listed this Monza for auction ending Saturday, September 28, at 7:42 PM ET. When this article was posted, the bidding had reached $1,075. Check out the full listing <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ebay.com/itm/276647226484/" target=\"_blank\">right here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1960s LeGant Chronograph (Probably A Gallet Multichron 45?)"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["114b4735-abd9-4c17-9f58-243c536aa726"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"If this one doesn't ring a bell, hang with me here. LeGant was an in-house brand for Montgomery Ward, one of the largest catalog and department store companies in the mid-20th century. As a native Chicagoan, I find the LeGant corner of vintage watches so interesting. Montgomery Ward was such a huge deal back in the day and its founder, Aaron Montgomery Ward, played a large part in shaping the city of Chicago. Quickly for anyone who cares, during a period of massive metropolitan growth, Ward was a prominent advocate for maintaining a Chicago shoreline-free of private property, earning the nickname \"watchdog of the lakefront.\" Today, Chicago's largely public shoreline is one of the best parts of the city and we have Ward to thank.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Back to watches, Montgomery Ward partnered with Swiss watch brands in order to offer the highest quality watches through their seasonal print catalogs. LeGant is a play on the word \"elegant\" in an attempt to position these watches as fancy and high end to catalog customers. I have come across <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/legant-chronograph-case-no-232d658?srsltid=AfmBOornOYK2Xa0cmRqlAxk-fcgcRR6bOzRJl_18i4Z0tq5KL_TnWQbX&variant=39929854165067\%22 target=\"_blank\">LeGant chronographs made by Zenith</a> before but I believe this one was made by Gallet as it looks sneakily similar to the Multichron 45.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"On top of all of this, the eBay listing makes one of my favorite mistakes. The seller has titled their listing \"Le gant watch Men's Watch Needs Battery As Is\" although I am sure it does not need a battery but rather either a wind or a service. Whatever it needs, it is worth saving. Plus, it looks like it is fitted on a nice vintage beads of rice bracelet!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"An eBay seller has listed this LeGant for auction ending Sunday, September 29, at 8:23 PM ET. The current bid is a whopping $10.50. See the full listing <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ebay.com/itm/286073874348/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Bonus: An Auction Full Of Odd 'Collectible' Watches"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"This one comes courtesy of the Hodinkee Slack and Minnesota-native Matt Thompson in particular. An Eden Prairie, Minnesota-based auction house <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.k-bid.com/auction/55918/" target=\"_blank\">is selling a ton of strange branded and promotional quartz watches</a>; bidding ends Sunday, September 29, at 8:00 PM ET. I don't have much to say other than you just have to browse the catalog and see for yourself.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":24,"slug":"whats_selling_where","name":"Bring a Loupe","description":"A weekly round-up of watches for sale from secondary dealers and auctions.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.292-04:00","updated_at":"2021-04-09T15:25:53.851-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"c5582d57-e7a2-42aa-ba13-66c1ebae72b7","container_id":13782,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/6386dbb2-13ca-4ec5-a752-e6a3f50b4987/BAL.Dufour.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2024-09-26T17:15:22.427-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-27T08:08:17.504-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/6386dbb2-13ca-4ec5-a752-e6a3f50b4987/BAL.Dufour.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-september-27-2024","full_title":"Bring a Loupe: A Philippe Dufour Duality, A Zenith Caliber 135 Chronometer, And An Odd 1920s Cartier","tags":["rolex","zenith","philippe-dufour","cartier","heuer","bring-a-loupe"]},{"id":13780,"slug":"five-things-i-learned-from-the-first-ever-rolex-authorized-submariner-book","column_slug":"historical_perspectives","title":"Five Things I Learned From The First Ever Rolex-Authorized Submariner Book ","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-09-25T15:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-09-25T11:51:54.544-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-27T07:46:52.115-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Don't let the modern reference on the cover fool you, this new book is full of vintage gems.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":31070,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Not just another fancy coffee table book, Oyster Perpetual Submariner – The Watch That Unlocked The Deep by Nicholas Foulkes is the most revealing look inside the Rolex archives – ever. I'll admit that when I first heard about the book, my cynicism got the better of me. Rolex, the global flagship of Swiss watchmaking, never reveals its secrets. Why would the company notorious for safeguarding archival information suddenly decide to make it available for public consumption?","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Well, the informational waters are no longer so murky. In one fell swoop, Rolex corrects, confirms, and adds to the scholarship surrounding vintage Submariners. Most significantly (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/DALuPRLNaxt/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==\%22 target=\"_blank\">and as already \"reported\" in the vintage Rolex IG community</a>) the production estimates of each Rolex Submariner reference ever made are included in the book's index. This is a 180° move from Rolex, a brand that typically says nothing to confirm or deny its vintage product, but it's just the tip of the Oyster Perpetual Submariner iceberg.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e68d6ecb-9469-441f-9cac-46508ee57456"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Previous scholarship was long fought for in the trenches of vintage collecting, compiling data from known original watches, adding in old stories handed down from Rolex savants of years past, and employing a mix of common sense and conjecture to arrive at conclusions that could only be presented with qualifiers such as \"as far as the collecting community knows…\".","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"With concrete information on Submariners sealed and approved by the Crown comes the promise of more authorized books on Rolex models (and their secrets). This book is the first in a series published by Wallpaper* in partnership with Rolex, all penned by Foulkes. The official Submariner book is 252 pages long, and while I would never give all the secrets away in one article, here are five things that Hodinkee's resident \"vintage guy\" learned while flipping through it.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1. The Submariner Was Born From The Explorer"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"In our <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-submariner-reference-points/" target=\"_blank\">Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Submariner</a>, a whole section is dedicated to \"The Genesis Of The Submariner.\" This idea of the Submariner, Explorer, and Turn-O-Graph hitting the market as a trio in May of 1954 was always a part of the \"accepted\" story. This is not to criticize or debunk a previous Hodinkee article, but more to show what we once thought was correct in the watch community.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8bbfd90a-3723-4491-b491-b975a41e344b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The very first chapter of Oyster Perpetual Submariner cites numerous primary accounts via the Rolex Archive to tell a wholly different story. According to the book, the Submariner was developed from the ref. 6150 Explorer. A series of letters between Rolex director René-Paul Jeanneret and the Rolex London office detail a story of specific requests from and tests by British Royal Navy divers beginning in 1952. A Rolex shipping form dated September 1953 notes early examples of the ref. 6150 being delivered to the Royal Navy.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"With feedback from divers, in 1954, Rolex London described a special version of the ref. 6150 \"manufactured in collaboration with the Admiralty,\" having a larger dial diameter (check) and a rotating bezel (double check). And so (according to the book), the Submariner was born.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9e3e00ab-8881-4291-b1f7-27ec3504dd48"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"2. Pièce Rebikoff, Nautilus, Frogman, And Sub-Aqua – The Many Names Of The Rolex Submariner"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"The Submariner, or simply \"Sub,\" is so ubiquitous today that we don't ever stop to think how a seemingly unnatural word found its way onto a Rolex dial. We're talking about the same company with enough imagination to dream up model names like Datejust for a watch with just a date complication and Day-Date for a watch with a day and date complication.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"According to Foulkes and Rolex, the project that would come to be known as the Submariner tried on various names while in development and even hit a post-launch hiccup in the US. Hans Wilsdorf is quoted in the book as saying, \"I like the name Deep Sea Special better than Frogman\" and even shares an idea that, in hindsight, would have really changed watch-world history: \"I am sure that Nautilus is already registered.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["6b32c445-a27d-4cf3-92dc-743a2f70d5ba"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Concurrent with the British Royal Navy tests, Rolex also contracted the assistance of Dimitri Rebikoff, a pioneer in underwater photography and the burgeoning sport of scuba diving. Rebikoff's influence on the Submariner project was so great that internally, the watch was referred to as \"pièce Rebikoff.\" Ultimately, in a Rolex technical meeting on May 28th, 1953, Jean Huguenin is credited with deciding that \"this piece will carry the name: 'SUBMARINER.'\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Even after the Submariner hit the market, the name was still in question. The book details an intellectual property rights issue in the U.S., resulting in the use of Sub-Aqua for a very short period. This explains once and for all <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/on-the-block-a-first-series-rolex-submariner-but-with-a-different-name-on-the-dial/" target=\"_blank\">the very rare, early variant of the Submariner with Sub-Aqua in place of Submariner on the dial</a>!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"3. We Can Thank Dimitri Rebikoff For The Death Of The Red Triangle Bezel"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"A couple of quick nuggets I gleaned before moving into the big news. I mentioned Dimitri Rebikoff above, but the book has a ton of great information about him and his relationship with Rolex – he was truly instrumental in making the Submariner look like it does today. For example, in April of 1953, he specifically called out the impracticality of the red triangle at 12 o'clock on the bezel, saying it \"will probably already become invisible below 10 meters… it would be better to replace it with a white triangle.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["93086aab-b2d5-4ad1-b11c-a264529045d5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"We are currently studying modifying the bezel so as to make the triangle snow white rather than red,\" responded René-Paul Jeanneret. And, in relatively short order, the red triangle was no more.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"4. Turn-O-Graph – The Forgotten Child Meant To Be The Big Hit At Basel"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Even after all of this Royal Navy and scuba diving pioneer development, the retail market hopes for the Submariner were low. According to the book, the Submariner was originally thought to be a niche, professional product. But it was the development of a rotating bezel that was to be the commercial saving grace. As such, the Turn-O-Graph was developed to launch in tandem with the Submariner, focused solely on the rotating bezel. It was to be \"the watch with a thousand and one uses.\" Rolex put the full might of its 1954 Basel Fair production behind the Turn-O-Graph. Ultimately, the Submariner won out.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["dd80390b-5d08-4e16-9537-df3efd39b800"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I can say from experience in the vintage market that very few Turn-O-Graphs were sold then and even with that rarity today, it is a difficult watch to sell to even the most discerning vintage Rolex collector. The Submariner took off and the Turn-O-Graph was left, largely forgotten, somewhere near the starting line.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"5. Production 'Estimates' For Each Submariner Reference"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"This back-of-book addition has been the \"talk of the vintage Rolex town\" since early copies of the book landed. It's hard to stress just how un-Rolex the inclusion of these numbers is, but I am sure most Hodinkee readers know by now. Listing out all the production numbers here feels a bit unfair to Wallpaper*, Foulkes, and all the people who worked hard to create the book, but I will call out a couple of \"key learnings,\" how about that? Important to note off the top, the fine print states that \"production quantities are estimates based on figures from the Rolex Archives,\" but, as we'll see, the numbers feel pretty exact.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f3ddb693-fd2f-494d-adb9-f24ebfa25cfc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Firstly, the vintage Rolex community is pretty damn good at guessing. For years, it has been widely accepted that around 300 ref. 6200 \"King Subs\" were produced. This number is often quoted because the reference was long thought to be one of the \"rarest.\" Turns out, we were right. The book confirms that an \"estimated\" 303 examples were produced (you see, the estimate looks pretty spot on, 303, not 300), and that is the lowest production of any reference.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Also interesting is the split between ref. 5513s and ref. 5512s. These two were sister references for most of their production, with the distinction between them being a chronometer-certified movement in the 5512 and a non-chronometer-certified caliber in the 5513. I know I am oversimplifying here a bit (don't @ me, Vintage Rolex Police). Anyway, outside of that movement difference, the two are essentially the same watch. Yet, the total production of the 5513 is estimated at 151,449 versus 17,338 for the 5512. In today's vintage market, 5512s have always carried a slight premium over 5513s but not a nearly nine times rarer premium.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["895dc9c7-e4bd-405f-b202-a00b7871845a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Oyster Perpetual Submariner will be available in English and French. Hardcover copies will be available for purchase from October 1, 2024. Visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.accartbooks.com/us//" target=\"_blank\">ACC Art Books</a> for retailer information. A limited number of silk-bound copies will be available exclusively through the WallpaperSTORE* for pre-order from September 16-19 and for purchase after that.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":9,"slug":"historical_perspectives","name":"Historical Perspectives","description":"Explore past and present HODINKEE content, from in-depth product reviews to original video series.","sort_order":9,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.025-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-08T14:36:10.698-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"74cd1eec-86cb-4120-b939-5577ea9e5277","container_id":13780,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/a76f4211-44d3-484e-a72e-a640a8a07fe7/RolexBookNew.1.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":" Rolex-Authorized Submariner Book ","created_at":"2024-09-25T11:51:54.631-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-27T07:46:19.743-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/a76f4211-44d3-484e-a72e-a640a8a07fe7/RolexBookNew.1.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/five-things-i-learned-from-the-first-ever-rolex-authorized-submariner-book","full_title":"Historical Perspectives: Five Things I Learned From The First Ever Rolex-Authorized Submariner Book ","tags":["rolex"]},{"id":13765,"slug":"bring-a-loupe-sep-20-2024","column_slug":"whats_selling_where","title":"A Fresh To Market Rolex 'King Sub,' A Cartier Purse Watch, And A Neo-Vintage Vacheron","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-09-20T11:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-09-19T20:24:53.403-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-21T11:08:29.423-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":24202,"public_token":"d328a23d3b2ba070cd70df4ff66fe5d2","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Welcome back to Bring A Loupe, and happy Friday! After a laser focus and a small opening rant on the idea of rare last week, today's selection is a bit more all over the place – sometimes it's just like that, okay!","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"To recap our last edition of BAL, we have two auction results to cover. First off, the Cartier London Decagon at Clars <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://live.clars.com/lots/view/1-9JVGXF/a-cartier-18k-gold-monaco-wristwatch/" target=\"_blank\">sold for $40,000</a> – a somewhat surprisingly strong result given the service dial, but that's Cartier London for you! Secondly, the Gubelin white gold dress watch <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ebay.com/itm/256628938822/" target=\"_blank\">went the distance on eBay for a final price of $2,425</a>. Our <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ebay.com/itm/276629057589/" target=\"_blank\">Borgel-cased Universal Genève</a> did not go the distance. It was ended by the seller \"because the item was lost or broken.\" Likely story. I assume someone made a nice offer via messages and got the deal done privately.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Let's get into this week's picks!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1954 Rolex Submariner Ref. 6200 'Explorer Dial'"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Leading off this week's edition is a big one. The reference 6200 Submariner has garnered the nickname of \"King Sub\" over the years, and for good reason. It is the first Submariner with an 8mm \"Big Crown\" and thanks to a slightly larger and thicker case, it is also the first Submariner with water resistance of 200 meters. I'm burying the lede a bit here. The case and crown details matter, but the \"King Sub\" nickname is largely thanks to the dial. We all love an Explorer-dial Submariner, right?","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7c97308a-e426-493a-a56a-a3ba0fa244f1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In total, 303 examples of the reference were produced. Drilling down further, we see two different dial variants in the 6200, a big logo and a small logo – more big logos are observed in the known market than small logos. Furthermore, most small logos do not have \"Submariner\" on the dial. You can see where I'm going here, right? The small logo with \"Submariner\" at six o'clock, like the one we have here, is really, really uncommon. The last public sale of a \"King Sub\" with this dial was at Christie's in 2007 (!) <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-4982680/" target=\"_blank\">when one sold for $156,191</a>, more than double its high estimate.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ac001630-2854-4f72-8fd5-9317765856b5","8bc86d4d-39ca-4b25-b95b-aa23b162da19"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The folks over at Subdial, the selling party, have tipped me off early to this one – BAL first access! Even beyond the uncommon dial variant, it's a special one. The watch is fresh to market, coming via the family of the original owner, a late Royal Navy officer, and features an all-original dial and handset. The lume on the dial and hands is original and matches. The seller rightly discloses that the bezel and bracelet are Rolex service replacements. To my eye, the case looks full and strong.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This Rolex Submariner ref. 6200 is for sale via <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://subdial.com//" target=\"_blank\">Subdial</a> in London. The price is available upon application. If you are interested in learning more, please reach out to support@subdial.com.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1930s Cartier Shutter Purse Watch"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"The watch hunting gods work in mysterious ways. Be it a rare gemset Patek Nautilus in a government auction of seized assets or a Cartier London watch at a small auction house in California, the best can be found in the strangest places. While Bonhams is a name we should all know on the watch auction scene, I did not expect to find a 1930s Cartier purse watch snuck into a weekly online sale. Yet, here we are.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["19f26883-f936-4d6b-97cd-ce09002b3c62"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"These Shutter, or sometimes called \"Eclipse,\" purse watches don't come up for sale too often. As an object, they are quite fun. Similar to the Cartier-signed Movado Ermeto from a few BALs ago, the idea here is to carry this watch in a bag. While knocking around with your other belongings, the watch face and crystal are covered by a spring-loaded shutter. When you want to know the time, pull your chic little watch from your bag, squeeze the two outer buttons towards the center, and the shutter magically reveals the time via a perfectly traditional Cartier dial. Throw it back in your bag and off you go.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["dc0705af-8947-43e9-b735-908a39d03a8a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"With the market's raging appetite for everything and anything vintage Cartier, particularly the oddball watches, this purse watch should still get plenty of attention even in an online sale. But in the grand scheme of things, these odd purse watches are one of the best ways to collect true vintage Cartier without breaking the bank. I mean, this watch was made, handmade in fact, in the 1930s!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This Cartier Shutter purse watch is <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29501/lot/2071/no-reserve-cartier-paris-a-gold-plated-and-silver-manual-wind-shutter-purse-watchc-1930s//" target=\"_blank\">lot 2071 of Bonhams's Weekly Watches New York sale</a> ending on Wednesday, September 25, at 12:00 PM ET. Bidding is at $420 at the time of publishing, with an estimate of $1,000 to $2,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1990s Vacheron Constantin Historiques Ref. 48100/000R-3 'Tour de L'ile'"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Here's another quick hidden gem from an online auction. This time, we're at Christie's in Hong Kong, looking at a neo-vintage Vacheron with tons of charm. I am continually impressed with everything from the Vacheron Historiques line, particularly the watches made in the 1990s. At an event last year, I was speaking with Christian Selmoni, Vacheron's style and heritage director, about this specific part of the brand's history, and the gist of the conversation was that Vacheron did not produce many examples of these historic references. It seems as though the brand's archive information backs up my hunch that a good number of different references were made, but the quantity of each was quite low.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1e25f924-601e-4981-af72-16f2c31e2d08"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This specific neo-vintage Historiques collection watch is a reference 48100/000R-3 Tour de L'ile. Stick with me here. The name of this model comes from a tower in Geneva that is the last remaining portion of a castle built in 1219 and that Vacheron occupied as a workshop from 1842 to 1875. Pretty cool, right? You can still <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/inside-tour-de-lile-vacheron-constantin-geneva/" target=\"_blank\">visit the tower today</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Anyway, the watch itself is a 31.5mm diameter rose-gold dress watch with cornes de vache lugs. The dial is quite simple yet really well designed to feature a power reserve and date complication in such a small area. The subdials for those complications are decorated with a guilloché pattern, which is a nice little touch.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This neo-vintage Vacheron is <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-the-collectibles-part-1/vacheron-constantin-ref-48100-000r-3-159/231846/" target=\"_blank\">lot 159 of Christie's Hong Kong's Watches Online: Featuring \"The Collectibles\" Part 1</a> sale ending on Tuesday, September 24, at 4 AM ET. Bidding is at $4,491, with an estimate of $4,106 to $8,340<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-the-collectibles-part-1/vacheron-constantin-ref-48100-000r-3-159/231846/" target=\"_blank\">.</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1950s Abercrombie & Fitch Twin-Time By Heuer"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Tying in to last week's edition of this column, the Abercrombie Twin-Time is a truly rare watch. I follow Abercrombie watches from this era quite closely and can say that I know of two other examples (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://universalgraph.jp/561//" target=\"_blank\">here</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/B_8q3_lpRvx/?igshid=1r0951yvdnamq\%22 target=\"_blank\">here</a>). You can imagine my surprise and excitement when browsing the latest Jones & Horan auction catalog and immediately recognizing this watch, the third example \"known\" (by me).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["cdab2dd0-40aa-4d91-8402-e58b2c53cf71"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"As is the story with the Seafarer, a tide-tracking chronograph, the Twin-Time is likely a result of David T. Abercrombie's product development with Heuer. Abercrombie, the man, was extremely dedicated to delivering the world's best products to his outdoor-adventuring American clientele. To that end, he made regular trips to Switzerland to visit brands like Heuer and ask for specific functions in a wristwatch that either his clients were asking for, or he thought they would find useful. The Twin-Time's internal rotating bezel allows the wearer to track a second time zone in a similar fashion to a vintage world timer.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This example at Jones & Horan is not perfect, but it does have a good look overall. I have handled one of the other examples in the metal; it had similar dial patina (although not quite as much as we see here) and honestly, it was quite charming. And, at the end of the day, given such limited supply in the market, condition can sometimes take a back seat.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This A&F Twin-Time is <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://jones-horan.hibid.com/lot/213079960/heuer-twin-time-retailed-by-abercrombie-and-fitch/" target=\"_blank\">lot 146 of Jones & Horan Featured Auction w/LIVE CLOSE: Horology, Jewelry, & Coins</a> sale on Thursday, October 10, 2024 at 11 AM ET. Pre-bidding is at $2,000 at the time of publishing, with an estimate of $3,000 to $6,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1960s Benrus Ultra-Deep Ref. 6086"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"I have a special place in my heart for vintage watch collectors who scour the pages of shopgoodwill.com. Thrift shops and particularly Goodwills have yielded some of the best finds in vintage watch collecting history, the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/found-vintage-lecoultre-deep-sea-alarm-worth-over-35000-for-599-at-phoenix-goodwill/" target=\"_blank\">LeCoultre Deep Sea Alarm</a> comes to mind, as does a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/antiques-roadshow-hundred-dollar-watch-is-worth-thousands/" target=\"_blank\">Blancpain Fifty Fathoms</a>. Possibly because of stories similar to the above links, Goodwill has started listing donated vintage watches for auction online. Today's Goodwill find will not be as legendary as those two, but is still a great watch in a seemingly unlikely place.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["590ac4a6-eda5-4bc6-83cd-6a24ed92fad0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Benrus Ultra-Deep was produced in the mid to late 1960s as a pure tool dive watch for the everyman. Around the same time that Benrus was supplying the U.S. Military with the Type 1 diver, the Ultra-Deep was available for commercial purchase. Housed in a Super Compressor case by Ervin Piquerez, S.A. (EPSA), the Ultra-Deep is high-tech. EPSA cases were cutting edge at this time and used by many brands like Heuer, Enicar, and, as featured in BAL a few weeks back, Lanco. These cases were designed to become more resistant to water ingress the deeper the watch was submerged. As outside pressure increases during a dive, the spring-loaded caseback pushes on the inside gaskets, creating a tighter seal.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["911148b9-4b69-4544-a3c8-ba537f81202f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"A Goodwill store in Oregon has listed this Benrus Ultra-Deep for auction ending Saturday, September 21, at 9:03 PM ET. At the time of publication, bidding was at $802. Get all the details on Goodwill's very <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shopgoodwill.com/item/210458268/" target=\"_blank\">Goodwill-feeling website right here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1930s Mimo 'Clamshell' Retailed By Hermann Horrmann"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"I was first drawn to this watch on a casual eBay scroll due to the early \"waterproof\" case and interestingly aged dial, but as I dug below the surface, I found real intrigue. First off, the condition. This is what a \"new old stock\" watch from the 1930s should look like. You can learn a lot about the condition of vintage watches by viewing examples like this and, if at all possible, handling them in person. The sharpness of the case and its various finishes are what we should want in a watch that has not been worn, let alone polished. The cherry on top of this condition sundae is the original hangtag, stamped with the serial number from inside the case.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["6903305e-f9c4-41ef-bbb9-df5bacc85447"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"All that is enough to bid on the watch or at least follow the auction to the end, but it doesn't even touch on who made the watch or the name on the dial. Starting with the former, Mimo made the watch. This case construction was nicknamed the \"clamshell,\" with a movement-holding caseback held by pressure inside of the upper case with four angled screws on the rear of the lugs. A few brands (Tavannes, Gallet, etc.) made watches with this style \"waterproof\" case, some rectangular and some round. Mimo might not ring a bell today but was very important in this era of watches, the Mimo-Meter was the first watch with a three o'clock date window (1930).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"And the name on the dial? Hermann Horrmann was a watch retailer in Leipzig, Germany, founded around the turn of the 20th century. Wall clocks and watches of various brands, most signed solely by the retailer on the dial, can be found and collected today. Given the location, Hermann Horrmann-signed watches are not found after 1945. This rabbit hole led me to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://uhrforum.de/threads/eine-mimo-sport-30er-jahre-von-hermann-horrmann.149681//" target=\"_blank\">a crazy German watch forum post</a> where the descendants of Horrmann started chiming in with info and family photos!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["63cdf156-4f32-4b37-ad0f-f6c28965f0f5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Anyway, the watch is in great condition and clearly has a fascinating backstory. For a \"new old stock\" watch, there is a lot of previous life to this piece.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"An eBay seller in Blankenburg, Germany, has listed this Hermann Horrmann-signed Mimo as a pure auction ending Wednesday, September 19, at 1:49 PM ET. At the time of publishing, bidding was at $28.94. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ebay.com/itm/116330582295/" target=\"_blank\">Check it out right here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":24,"slug":"whats_selling_where","name":"Bring a Loupe","description":"A weekly round-up of watches for sale from secondary dealers and auctions.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.292-04:00","updated_at":"2021-04-09T15:25:53.851-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"08d3206e-75b5-479d-850d-2f62f39e5d11","container_id":13765,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/bff51240-728c-4dfc-a495-733949b751dc/Hero_BAL_9.19.jpg","width":5238,"height":2880,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"a rolex dive watch","created_at":"2024-09-19T20:24:53.490-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-20T09:11:01.373-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/bff51240-728c-4dfc-a495-733949b751dc/Hero_BAL_9.19.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-sep-20-2024","full_title":"Bring a Loupe: A Fresh To Market Rolex 'King Sub,' A Cartier Purse Watch, And A Neo-Vintage Vacheron","tags":["rolex-submariner","vintage-rolex","bring-a-loupe","vintage-cartier"]},{"id":13751,"slug":"bring-a-loupe-september-13-2024","column_slug":"whats_selling_where","title":"A Cartier London Decagon, A Rolex Oyster Perpetual With Breguet Numerals, And A Universal Genève 'Polarouter'","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-09-13T11:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-09-12T19:31:40.321-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-20T12:08:06.498-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"All that and more real rarity in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":28954,"public_token":"ce5d67ac16e3c2c4a4a7787030e64ae0","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Welcome back to Friday and happy Bring A Loupe! Rare is a buzzword in watch collecting. Used far too often and with far too many accompanying adverbs in the annals of major auction house catalogs, I tend to err on the side of extreme caution when using the watch world's favorite r-word. This week's picks all exemplify what I mean by rare: watches that are actually rare to the point where you'd have to wait for years to see another one for sale.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Before I rant about rare some more, let's tie a bow on the last edition of \"old Hodinkee's\" favorite article of the week. The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ebay.com/itm/365110983424/" target=\"_blank\">UG Tri-Compax with awful photos remains available</a> as does <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ebay.com/itm/235704597858/" target=\"_blank\">TanTan's Grand Seiko pick</a> (hey, BAL picking isn't for everyone, it's okay T2). Tennants Auctioneers will offer <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://auctions.tennants.co.uk/auction/lot/lot-2461---movado-a-silver-enamel-and-black-lacquered/?lot=2487266&so=0&st=1930&sto=0&au=14163&ef=&et=&ic=False&sd=0&pp=96&pn=1&g=1\%22 target=\"_blank\">the Movado Ermeto for Cartier tomorrow</a>. And for results, our <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ebay.com/itm/375628881133/" target=\"_blank\">Mido Multifort sold for $279</a> and the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/parmigiani-fleurier/CH080324/13/" target=\"_blank\">Parmigiani chronograph at Phillips</a> soared past the \"sucker\" estimate, selling for CHF 19,050.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Rare doesn't necessitate expensive. Sure, rare watches can command a premium, but that premium is only justified when a watch sits at the intersection of rare and desirable. Let's get into the picks.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1976 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 1002 With Breguet Numeral Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["59e31abc-bfd5-4135-8a98-17468f698c94"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Rolex Oyster Perpetual reference 1002 is not a rare watch. Yet, with this dial it certainly is. To be exact, there are three examples of this dial known to the market. When I first encountered one of the three while in Geneva for auctions back in May, I was floored. This is Rolex nerd heaven. With the simple change of applied hour markers to large printed Breguet numerals, a \"standard\" OP is really elevated.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The known watches have all come to market somewhat recently and scholarship on these has been evolving. On all three, the reverse of the dial is signed in a similar fashion by Beyeler, a Rolex dial supplier of the time, leading to the theory that they all belong to the same, presumably small, batch and were produced at the same time. This case, dating to 1976, is the earliest known so far but the others date to just a few years later.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["6787cbd7-248b-4485-8a42-19f62ee61744"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Not only do the Breguet numerals create rarity, but they also do a lot for the overall look. In May, I wasn't floored simply because it was a vintage Rolex I had never seen before. Sure, that was a factor. But adding to it was how well the design worked and how charming the simple OP was. It is no surprise, as my favorite Pateks feature Breguet numerals. But there is something even more charming about these rare OPs because the style is just very un-Rolex-like, for lack of a better fake word.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The seller, Wes at Collectors Corner NY, is offering this one of three Rolex for $29,900. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://collectorscornerny.com/products/rolex-oyster-perpetual-1002-w-breguet-numerals-extremely-rare/" target=\"_blank\">Check it out right here.</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1960s Cartier London Decagon"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4c6ad689-461a-45a1-9f09-be36967d1ecb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"With a similar number of known watches as our Rolex Oyster Perpetual, this Cartier London Decagon offered at a small auction house in Oakland popped up in my searches this week. I was shocked, to say the least. In fact, I figured it was fake. Just to be sure, I reached out to Clars Auctions, the seller, requesting a photo of the movement and inside caseback. Turns out, it's real.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"When a Cartier London watch like this comes up for sale, it can warrant a full-blown Hodinkee article on its own. The magic of London-made watches in this period has been covered over and over and backed up by the market time and time again, but it's worth reiterating. What you get in Cartier London is a lot of the same charm as the earliest 1910s Cartier watches, in that they are handmade, one at a time, but with 1960s techniques and understanding – plus, these London watches are simply more wearable. Cartier London is more than just the original Crash, Pebble, and Maxi Oval; we see other odd-yet-true-to-the-Cartier-aesthetic shapes from London in the 1960s. The Decagon is one of these shapes.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["633f3607-91f5-4b15-a1f2-262d76864706","4b037165-27bd-4340-bf67-6976ecb49cd1"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The last Decagon to go to auction well exceeded estimates, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/88-cartier-26/lot-81/" target=\"_blank\">selling for €55,900 all-in</a> at Monaco Legends Group in October of 2021. I was lucky enough to handle <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/justin.gruenberg/p/CPZDfmzLK0j//" target=\"_blank\">two Decagons</a> on a visit to Justin Gruenberg's shop, The Keystone, and I can confirm the model is really special. It's actually somewhat ugly, or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-cartier-london-maxi-ronde-is-coming-up-for-sale-in-london/" target=\"_blank\">as Malaika Crawford put it</a>, \"ugly beautiful.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Bidder beware: If you haven't clocked it by now, this Decagon at Clars is fitted with what appears to be a later Cartier service dial. It hurts the value but does not make it any less rare. Bid accordingly!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This Cartier London Decagon is <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://live.clars.com/lots/view/1-9JVGXF/a-cartier-18k-gold-monaco-wristwatch/" target=\"_blank\">lot 5115 of the Exquisite Diamonds & Watches Auction</a> at Clars Auctions. The estimate is $5,000-7,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1950s Universal Genève Polarouter Ref. 20217-3"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["32ed91b9-f3dd-4f5c-bfe5-55e544a5d349"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Universal Genève Polerouter is at the very core of the Hodinkee vintage watch experience. Beyond simply being a great watch to own and wear, the model has an interesting history that is well covered around the watch world and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/universal-geneve-polerouter-a-week-on-the-wrist/" target=\"_blank\">especially on the pages of Hodinkee</a>. There is a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-polerouter-a-new-book-adds-to-our-age-old-appreciation-for-a-vintage-icon/" target=\"_blank\">whole book about the Polerouter</a>! To put it quickly and stick to what is relevant for this particular watch, the Polerouter, eventually, and Polarouter, as we see here, is the result of a project involving SAS (Scandinavian Airlines Systems) and Universal Genève. In 1954, SAS first flew direct from Copenhagen to Los Angeles, traveling over the North Pole. It was a bigger deal than it may read here in 2024. Anyway, SAS contracted UG to create a watch to celebrate, UG supposedly contracted a 23-year-old Gérald Genta, and, boom, the Polarouter was born, commemorating the \"polar flight.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Polarouter spelling did not last very long. None of these are typos by the way – I am being very careful. About a year later, in 1955, Polarouter was out and Polerouter was in. In all, about 300 watches bearing the name Polarouter were created, half with a SAS logo on the dial.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["3191888a-ff3c-451a-9c7d-4150239e5ade"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The example we have here is a part of the reportedly 170 watches made for commercial use with Polarouter text. In the world of Polerouters, where around 1,000 different references exist, 170 examples means rare. I can personally say that while I have been looking for a black-dial Polarouter for around five years, I have only seen two or three come up for sale.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This example is a silver dial and while it may not be exactly what I have been looking for, the condition is great and the overall patina is attractive. One \"flaw\" to note is a replacement crown, as the seller calls out.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Waecce Watches in Beverley, UK, is offering this Polarouter for $4,686. Get all the details <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.waecce.com/products/rare-pre-polerouter-universal-geneve-polarouter-ref-20217-3-c-1954/" target=\"_blank\">right here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1950s Gubelin Dress Watch With Baguette Diamond Cardinal Indices"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["d6234209-b4f7-4770-bd9f-f0f1d4ffe4e1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I have a soft spot and an eBay saved search for Gubelin watches. You should know them as a long-time retailer of Patek Philippe, but Gubelin is not all about retailing Patek. The Lucerne-based brand also arranged the production of white-label products that are simply signed \"Gubelin.\" The quality of these watches does vary a bit; at the highest end, Gubelin watches were made by Audemars Piguet, but even at the lower end they were made by brands like Eterna.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The watch we have here is a great example of Gubelin's white label quality in the vintage era. I believe this was produced around the same time as the retailer's 100th anniversary in 1954. To celebrate the milestone, Gubelin contracted AP to produce a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stetzcowatches.com/product/1954-gubelin-jubilee-tropical-dial-audemars-piguet-vzss-18kt-wg//" target=\"_blank\">batch of 200 watches now known as the Jubilee series</a>. After requesting a movement photo from the eBay seller, this particular Gubelin is likely not produced by Audemars. But the quality of the dial and case is very similar. My guess is that this watch was made to be a slightly lower-priced yet similar-looking alternative to the APs in Gubelin's case.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["203a3bfa-b65c-4d19-802e-007cec6096ee","df930ca3-99cf-4338-9b3b-4011d4bf0bc4"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"While who produced it is an unknown, what I do know is that the watch is rare. Dress watches signed by a brand as well regarded as Gubelin and set with baguette-diamond cardinal indices do not pop up every day, especially in white gold. See some of the 1950s contemporaries in <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-baguette-set-watch-is-having-a-full-circle-moment/" target=\"_blank\">this article by Malaika</a> – if they were rare for Patek, they were rare for everyone at the time.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"An eBay seller out of St. Louis has put this Gubelin up for auction ending Sunday, September 15, at 9:30 PM ET. At the time of publishing, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ebay.com/itm/256628938822/" target=\"_blank\">bidding was at $810</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1940s Universal Genève Ref. 20105"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["54d92675-6314-4cd0-94ef-c3c1a1342c91"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Lastly, we have a little UG, literally. It is 30mm in diameter, with a case made by François Borgel. My love for FB cases knows no bounds, and I just keep finding them – but this is a new one for me. I have not been able to find very many Universals with FB cases and after a quick search, I can't seem to find another example of this particular reference. So, honestly, it's a bit of a mystery watch but one that I believe is quite rare as well. To my eye, nothing looks wrong or off about the watch in terms of authenticity, but I will be vulnerable and ask someone in the comments to correct me if needed!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["fe71576f-b85c-42e9-93cf-58135ca2b416"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"An eBay seller from Boca Raton, FL, has listed this Universal Genève for auction ending Sunday, September 15, at 10:06 PM ET. At the time of publishing, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ebay.com/itm/276629057589/" target=\"_blank\">bidding was at $42</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":24,"slug":"whats_selling_where","name":"Bring a Loupe","description":"A weekly round-up of watches for sale from secondary dealers and auctions.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.292-04:00","updated_at":"2021-04-09T15:25:53.851-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"1102ee1b-e206-480c-8864-1339813b9b98","container_id":13751,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/36ff4a4f-d303-4ae3-8721-0bda8e0ffc7b/BAL.9.13.24.jpg","width":5238,"height":2880,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2024-09-12T19:31:40.440-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-12T20:21:32.465-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/36ff4a4f-d303-4ae3-8721-0bda8e0ffc7b/BAL.9.13.24.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-september-13-2024","full_title":"Bring a Loupe: A Cartier London Decagon, A Rolex Oyster Perpetual With Breguet Numerals, And A Universal Genève 'Polarouter'","tags":["rolex","universal-geneve","cartier","gubelin","bring-a-loupe"]},{"id":13713,"slug":"why-jaeger-lecoultres-latest-traveling-collection-is-worth-your-time","column_slug":"article","title":"Why Jaeger-LeCoultre's Latest Traveling Collection Is Worth Your Time","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-09-10T15:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-09-10T12:39:42.029-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-13T20:38:51.349-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"With stops in NYC and Los Angeles, \"The Precision Pioneer\" offers a unique chance to see watchmaking at the highest level and without a trip to Switzerland.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":28613,"public_token":"d631c96c2c58f100953d8e53f186ac8e","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"If your ideal Sunday afternoon involves a casual scroll of Hodinkee.com or, worse, you are (un)lucky enough to work in the watch world, it is easy to become desensitized. Look at enough photos of a tourbillon cage on your favorite personal screen, and even the handiwork of Abraham-Louis Breguet can evoke a feeling of numbness or, to put it another way, a thought of \"yep, just another tourb.\" In reality, watchmaking is only truly experienced in person. Reading this site and others like it can supplement the experience, but it's not the whole experience. This is why, upon hearing of Jaeger-LeCoultre's latest traveling collection, rather than letting my eyes glaze over, I took a closer look.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"For all the details on this event, I direct you over to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-presents-the-precision-pioneer-travelling-collection/" target=\"_blank\">James's Happenings article</a> – he does a better job laying out the logistics than I could even recreate.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f288aac7-4e3f-4a25-b9a2-1d87bec4c78f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Saving you a trip to Le Sentier, JLC is bringing a selection of its haute-est horology to the good ole US of A. The exhibition is centered around the 2024 Duometre collection, including two entirely new Duometre calibers: the caliber 391 Duometre Chronograph Moon and the caliber 388 Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual. Alongside the Duometres, JLC has reached into its archive to show off a few bonus pieces. The entire collection will be a marvel to witness in person and, no doubt, bring the art of watchmaking to life. Here are a few of my quick picks from \"the best of the rest\" – or non-new-for-2024 JLC novelties. These three watches alone will be the reason I attend \"The Precision Pioneer\" in NYC.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Reverso Hybris Mechanica Cal. 185 'Quadriptyque' Ref. Q7103420"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a68037d9-fb09-4f5b-a2cc-e8e38227bcb7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"If you were curious about JLC's intentions with this traveling collection and thought it might be a grandiose-sounding excuse to put the brand's 2024 novelties in front of potential customers, the inclusion of this Reverso should quell any concerns. This level of watchmaking, a total of 11 complications, is rarely displayed. Even for a brand the size of JLC, publicly showcasing a watch like this takes some real courage. To be clear, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-quadriptyque-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">at launch in 2021</a>, this was the most complicated Reverso ever and had a price tag of €1.35 million.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Duometre Spherotourbillon Moon Ref. Q6086420"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"In a very different watch world of 10 years ago, something like the Spherotourbillon blew minds. To quote a 2012 Hodinkee article, penned, I assume, by Ben Clymer, \"If you ask most journalists which watch from SIHH most impressed them from a pure horological standpoint, I would venture to bet most would respond with 'The Spherotoubillon.'\" This was an era where Switzerland's greatest watch brands were in an arms race to create the most, well... complicated and esoteric complications possible.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["18f9daed-f8c1-4d38-9c95-9ee8ed8da472"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Using the \"dual-wing\" Duometre concept as its base, the Spherotourbillon aims to be a tourbillon for pure accuracy's sake rather than for aesthetics or \"look that goes round and round on my watch!\" A dual-axis, dual-cage tourbillon powers this beast of a watch while sitting on a 20° incline, and at the push of a button at two o'clock, the tourbillon will reset to zero for precise setting. If this sounds like your kind of thing, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-jaeger-lecoultre-duometre-spherotourbillon-moon/" target=\"_blank\">check out this \"Old Hodinkee\" article</a> (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-the-jaeger-lecoultre-duometre-a-spherotourbillon-li/" target=\"_blank\">and this one!</a>), but, most importantly, check this thing out in person while you can.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon Ref. Q3946420"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Finally, combining the previous two picks in a way is the Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon, quite possibly one of the most interesting and underappreciated Reversos ever produced. If you're like me and find the Quadriptyque's 11 complications to be a bit much and the Duometre Spherotourbillon to be slightly too watch-nerdy, this one is for you. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bc6d2b39-1877-42c3-b6fd-4dda999910c2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon takes queues from JLC's first modern grand complication, 2004's Master Gyrotourbillon 1, and packages JLC's touch for precision high watchmaking into the familiar Reverso case while remaining entirely wearable at 51.1mm x 31mm x 12.4mm.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"'The Precision Pioneer' Traveling Collection Information"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Jaeger-LeCoultre's \"The Precision Pioneer\" traveling collection is currently on view at the brand's NYC boutique at 701 Madison Avenue and will run until September 24th. After NYC, the show hits the road to Los Angeles, where the collection will be on view from October 5th to 18th. New York City hours are 10 AM-6:30 PM on weekdays and 10 AM-5:30 PM on Saturdays. Please note that reservations are required for attendance.\n\nFor more information, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-presents-the-precision-pioneer-travelling-collection/" target=\"_blank\">click here</a>. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":1,"slug":"article","name":"Article","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.918-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T16:49:00.996-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"0523789a-fbc1-4a0c-afe0-3676d8ef8b66","container_id":13713,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/3cc29a01-2eb3-4e31-9355-a30fdaaf9d20/Hero-JLC.jpg","width":5238,"height":2880,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"JLC travelling collection","created_at":"2024-09-10T12:39:42.083-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-10T14:38:39.635-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/3cc29a01-2eb3-4e31-9355-a30fdaaf9d20/Hero-JLC.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/why-jaeger-lecoultres-latest-traveling-collection-is-worth-your-time","full_title":"Why Jaeger-LeCoultre's Latest Traveling Collection Is Worth Your Time","tags":["jaeger-lecoultre","jaeger-lecoultre-reverso"]},{"id":13706,"slug":"bring-a-loupe-september-6-2024","column_slug":"whats_selling_where","title":"A Neo-Vintage Parmigiani, A Prototype Hamilton, And A Universal Genéve eBay Gem","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-09-06T11:00:10.993-04:00","created_at":"2024-09-05T19:59:50.315-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-06T11:01:43.862-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":21053,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Happy Friday and welcome back to Bring A Loupe! The watch market never stops and neither do I. At the top end, the big auction houses are set to announce their Geneva catalogs for November soon enough – start saving your pennies. Or don't and keep reading for the best of what's available right now across the world of vintage and not-so-vintage watches.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Recapping <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-august-30-2024/" target=\"_blank\">last week</a>, I was glad to hear that our tropical Tudor with original owner provenance found a new home. As for auction results, the Longines roulette pocket watch <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://ineichen.com/auctions/timed-63/58//" target=\"_blank\">hammered for CHF 4,200 at Ineichen</a>, the minty 1950s Rolex OP <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/184831088_men-s-rolex-stainless-watch-circa-1950-60-no-band/" target=\"_blank\">sold for $2,100</a>, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ebay.com/itm/166934193591/" target=\"_blank\">the vintage Carrera on eBay</a> was mysteriously removed due to \"an error in the listing.\" I smell a deal agreed to outside the bounds of eBay!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Did you miss the previous edition due to the busyness of Geneva Watch Days? Don't fret. This week's picks are even better. Let's get into it.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1950s Universal Genève Tri-Compax Ref. 22297/3"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e1d8f570-7ac1-47bd-ae20-edb25ee2cf5f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Ask and you shall receive. I was just complaining (last week!) about the lack of quality UG on the vintage market and it looks like eBay delivered. Hidden in possibly the worst set of photos to ever grace the illustrious pages of Hodinkee is a seemingly mint reference 22297/3 Tri-Compax. I've said it before – when I scroll eBay these are the kind of photos I am actively looking for. They say \"untouched watch, seller who isn't some extreme nerd trying to charge double for a 'rare prototype transitional' handset.\" And I say nerd in the kindest way possible – many would describe me as such.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Speaking of transitional, the ref. 22297 is just that within the Tri-Compax history. When I think of the Tri-Compax I typically envision either <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/letters-from-the-editor-why-i-bought-pete-fullertons-univers/" target=\"_blank\">the earlier ref. 22279 a la Pete Fullerton's</a> or the later water-resistant, twisted lug cases with typically \"linen\" dials like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1950s-universal-geneve-tri-compax?srsltid=AfmBOoo5nfiYrzWD_5VIFj_DaACMrEuWWtRhz6h3GU41fr37A2sSk5PR&variant=16917303812\%22 target=\"_blank\">this ref. 222100/1</a>. As you can guess by now, the reference we have here sits in between these two more obvious and commonly seen generations. The ref. 22297 features a water-resistant case, but with more typically shaped, simple and turned-down lugs, and has come to be known for its undersized pushers, which are nicknamed \"spillino\" pushers by Italian collectors.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["02e55f16-331f-4a10-846e-931b38ef28ea"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"From the photos, it doesn't look like the Italians or any other group of collectors have intervened in the natural aging of this Universal. The case is very strong and the lume is full with a nice patina. The extra \"/3\" on the reference number is a dial code that this dial type is thought to match, so it is all checking out there. The seller's price at the starting point of the auction is fair. From a reputable dealer, an example of this reference will trade <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.matthewbaininc.com/watch-details/3600/" target=\"_blank\">a touch higher</a>. Although, based on the photos, the condition of this watch could be even better.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e1083317-8e4e-4b7d-a09a-775a16281d2f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"An eBay seller and amateur photographer out of California has <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ebay.com/itm/365098820667/" target=\"_blank\">put this Tri-Compax up for auction</a>, ending Sunday, September 8, at 4:14 PM ET. At the time of publishing, there are no bids at the starting price of $8,998.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"2002 Parmigiani Fleurier Chronograph In Rose Gold, Ref. PF006782"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9b21043d-897a-436c-944f-8c097f99221f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The first few years of Parmigiani Fleurier will always hold a special place in my heart. These were some of the best watches made right at the turn of the 21st century. Rather than going on and on here, check out <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/early-parmigiani-fleurier-and-the-enduring-appeal-of-overbuilt-watches/" target=\"_blank\">this article from last March</a>. If this particular Parmigiani looks familiar, you're not going crazy; famously, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/king-charles-parmigiani-fleurier-toric-chronograph-is-a-real-collectors-choice/" target=\"_blank\">King Charles III</a> is known to own and frequently wear one. Due to the King Charles III connection, these early Chronographs have a bit of a cult following in the watch world.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"In an online sale over at Phillips, I stumbled across what looks to be a perfect example. If you ever wanted to be just like the King of the United Kingdom, this is a good first step. You can start riding horses and wearing Barbour jackets after acquiring the watch, of course.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"In all seriousness, it is ultimately so difficult to describe what makes this generation of Parmigiani watches so great. In that article I linked to, I landed on \"overbuilt\" as a descriptor, and I think that does a decent enough job. If you ever hold one in your hand, you will immediately understand – the build quality and finishing are just insane. Especially at this price point.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This Parmigiani Fleurier is <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/parmigiani-fleurier/CH080324/13/" target=\"_blank\">lot 13</a> of Phillips Watches Online: The Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024. The estimate is CHF 6,000-12,000, which is, in my opinion, a \"sucker\" estimate – I would expect to pay above high estimate.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1969 Hamilton Chrono-Matic Fontainebleau Prototype"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7e095025-cd6b-4224-99b4-3450a4709a7a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In the world of car collecting, prototypes and concept cars presented at auto shows are a thing. While certainly a niche within the larger car world, for some people, the strange oddity of a prototype is peak collecting. Following and learning about this niche from <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.mortonstreetpartners.com//" target=\"_blank\">Morton Street Partners</a> here in NYC has been eye-opening for me. Rather than '60s Ferraris or air-cooled Porsches, Morton Street highlights cars like the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/CwFMlIaIZpq/?hl=en&img_index=1\%22 target=\"_blank\">1959 Citroën Squal</a> and the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/CwF6qpWIkeW/?hl=en&img_index=1\%22 target=\"_blank\">1984 Lotus Etna</a> – this is quite the rabbit hole. There is no Morton Street for the watch world. If there was, they would curate and highlight the unique traits of this 1969 Hamilton prototype – the Citroën Squal of watches, if you will.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This is as close to a concept watch as we're going to get. Shown at Basel in 1969 (yes, this exact watch), the Hamilton Chrono-Matic Fontainebleau was one of the products resulting from the Chronomatic or Project 99 Consortium – a four-brand and four-year effort in the arms race for the first self-winding chronograph movement. It is a long story but undoubtedly a pivotal moment in the history of watches and this exact watch had a unique role in all of it, as one of five Chrono-Matic watches presented by Hamilton at Basel.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The seller, Arthur at Shuck The Oyster in Germany is offering this one of five prototype Hamilton for €10,900. Check it out <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.shucktheoyster.com/portfolio/hamilton-chrono-matic-fontainbleau-prototype-vintage-chronograph//" target=\"_blank\">right here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1930s Movado Ermeto For Cartier"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b8001e47-f848-4665-9b8b-e740d622e265"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Now for a couple of quick hits before I exit stage left to make way for a special message from TanTan Wang (teaser!). This little Movado Ermeto hit one of my auction searches this week and I immediately thought of one of the best things I saw last year – the Cartier clocks auctioned by Phillips. Malaika Crawford <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/phillips-to-sell-two-rare-art-deco-cartier-clocks-at-upcoming-new-york-auction/" target=\"_blank\">covered the sale right here</a> and I had the chance to see the clocks during previews in both Geneva and New York; they are simply incredible objects. Anyway, on a much smaller scale, this Ermeto dates to the same period and is giving me similar vibes with the enameling and lacquering to the case. Finding an Ermeto retailed by Cartier is possible, finding one with this case finish and still intact is a whole other thing. The lacquer and enamel are very thin, I can't tell you how many Ermetos I have found with this finish flaked off.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Ermeto is a marvel in and of itself. Uniquely winding via opening and closing the case, Movado sold a whole lot of these over decades. Maybe this is a whole article, stay tuned.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This Movado Ermeto retailed by Cariter is <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://auctions.tennants.co.uk/auction/lot/lot-2461---movado-a-silver-enamel-and-black-lacquered/?lot=2487266&so=0&st=1930&sto=0&au=14163&ef=&et=&ic=False&sd=0&pp=96&pn=1&g=1\%22 target=\"_blank\">for sale at Tennants Auctioneers</a> in Leyburn, North Yorkshire. It is lot 2461 of the Jewellery, Watches & Silver sale set to start at 9:30 BST on September 14, 2024. The estimate is £300 to £400.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1950s Mido Multifort Extra Super Automatic"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2e30db03-edb0-4c0b-a1c7-0a76328e94d1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"If you can stomach wearing a simple, round, time-only watch that is under 35mm in diameter, I urge you to look at vintage Mido. This one is the perfect example. It has a case made by François Borgel measuring 34mm (just 1mm smaller than the Patek ref. 565 by FB) and an elegant yet simple dial design, yet the final bid price might be $200. I know it's a Mido but the fact that Patek Calatravas from this period are getting more expensive while you can find these for a few hundred dollars is a shame!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"One note, most of the FB-cased Midos are smaller than this. If you're looking for other examples, check the case measurements and look for this model, the Multifort Extra Super Automatic. That's Mido speak for \"a little bit bigger than the rest of our watches.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"An eBay user <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ebay.com/itm/375628881133/" target=\"_blank\">is offering this Mido Multifort</a> at a starting bid of $95. The auction ends Tuesday September 10, 2024, at 9:00 PM ET and the time of publication, there are no bids!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Celeb Pick! Grand Seiko 9F Sports Collection SBGV243"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"author_id":235},"type":"Block::Author"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["80529d01-78ed-4e66-af7c-3f56fd4f58d1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"If you're at all into the niche sub-interest that is the collecting of Grand Seiko 9F-movement quartz watches, you'll know that the SBGV245, nicknamed the \"Grey Beast,\" is the king in this category. Not only was the completely grey colorway a great exercise in monochromatic design, but to me, that specific and now-discontinued case was also and forever will be one of Grand Seiko's best. There's something about all of the facets, in alternating brushed and Zaratsu-polished finishes, that feels like the best implementation of Taro Tanaka's original \"Grammar of Design\" in the modern Grand Seiko lineup.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Often overlooked is the black and yellow colorway of the SBGV243, which was released simultaneously. It's not as sleek as the \"Grey Beast,\" but there's something so interesting about the bright yellow accents against the black dial. I've always had search alerts on for this model, as I've dreamed about adding this to accompany my SBGV245, and I think this listing from Japan has by far the lowest asking price I've seen. From the images and the seller's listing, it looks like the case is mostly in excellent condition, with the facets appearing sharp.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The \"catch,\" if you will, is that this listing is for watch only – no box and papers, and no OEM strap with Grand Seiko deployant clasp. But for me, this would be a worthy tradeoff for a watch that I would immediately put onto one of my existing straps and just wear the hell out of. Check it out <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ebay.com/itm/235704597858?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=k2GmEtkTSzK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=vzdCsQ-USNW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY\%22 target=\"_blank\">right here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":24,"slug":"whats_selling_where","name":"Bring a Loupe","description":"A weekly round-up of watches for sale from secondary dealers and auctions.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.292-04:00","updated_at":"2021-04-09T15:25:53.851-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"7ebcbe21-9c9e-44d8-900e-91ca6ff94e34","container_id":13706,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/30e4d158-f003-4c94-a972-73164cb887d5/BAL_9.6.24_3.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2024-09-05T19:59:50.420-04:00","updated_at":"2024-09-05T20:11:53.137-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/30e4d158-f003-4c94-a972-73164cb887d5/BAL_9.6.24_3.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-september-6-2024","full_title":"Bring a Loupe: A Neo-Vintage Parmigiani, A Prototype Hamilton, And A Universal Genéve eBay Gem","tags":["universal-geneve","hamilton","cartier","parmigiani-fleurier","bring-a-loupe","mido"]},{"id":13693,"slug":"bring-a-loupe-august-30-2024","column_slug":"whats_selling_where","title":"A Grail-Level Rolex Paul Newman Daytona, A Jaeger-LeCoultre Triple Calendar, And A Neo-Vintage Daniel Roth Chronograph","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-08-30T11:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-08-29T17:21:49.879-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-30T11:20:37.751-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's what's selling where column.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":36336,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"It's Friday of Geneva Watch Days and if you're looking for a break from new releases, you're in the right place. The watch internet gods made it easy for me this week, I cannot lie. Watches kept on popping up on my radar and making their way to my working list – I even had to make a few cuts!","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"I have two auction results to recap from our last installment, published on August 23rd, and both are strong. The pink-on-pink Movado on eBay hammered for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ebay.com/itm/235704369699/" target=\"_blank\">$2,000</a>, slightly exceeding my expectations and personal max bid! Congrats to the new owner, you got a good one. Our seized Patek Nautilus ref. 5711/1300A-001 found a new home this morning for an all-in price of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.wilsonsauctions.com/timed-auction/listings/lot?salecode=OM3450&listingid=a036fefe-65fd-485a-a599-8855abc8a322&altCurrency=%C2%A3&bundleoverview=false\%22 target=\"_blank\">£354,960</a> – the UK government purse is happy I presume.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This week's picks are highlighted by a grail-level Rolex Daytona with a Paul Newman dial, a Universal Genève Compur in a Jeanneret case, and a few gems at small auction houses. Let's get into it.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1969 Rolex Paul Newman Daytona Ref. 6263 Mk 1.75 Panda Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["71cca6e7-c723-4fb8-9cf5-df85673de7af"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"On Tuesday, when Jacek from Tropical Watch posted a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/C_LMHfcpdkk//" target=\"_blank\">blurred out wristshot</a> to his Instagram of what was clearly a Paul Newman Daytona, I knew it had to be a crazy example. It takes a special watch to get someone like him excited enough to tease us like this. A day later, the watch was properly posted for sale and everything became clear – for sale is one of the best Paul Newmans you will ever see.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The panda Paul Newman reference 6263 is considered by many, including collectors like Ben Clymer, to be a perfect thing. That may seem like a vague description, but when you talk to enough watch people, you begin to understand that even the most universally loved watches have \"flaws.\" Comments like \"yeah but I wish the case was a bit thinner\" are commonplace. When it comes to something like a white-dialed 6263 Newman, there are no holes to poke.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Universally the ultimate Newman, the ref. 6263 stands out as the final iteration of the manually-wound Daytona generation with an updated Valjoux 72-based movement, screw-down pushers, and a black bezel. Aesthetically, collectors have always been drawn to these later Newman dials as they are devoid of red accents, hence the panda nickname.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e0ed8c8f-3553-4441-b3fc-8f3e02c13f3d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The example for sale here checks all the boxes. The case is strong with light wear, the dial is overall clean with all the right patina and a slight tropical note to the outer track, and the parts are original. Jacek should get props for noting the last sale of this watch at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6367454/" target=\"_blank\">Christie's Geneva in May of 2022</a>, as many dealers would not. I remember viewing the watch then and would never forget that dial, but being clear that this watch previously sold publicly isn't a detractor – it is a plus.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Check out the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://tropicalwatch.com/watches/6bhe/" target=\"_blank\">full listing over on Tropical Watch</a>. The asking price is $735,550 – a big number for a huge watch. If you're with me and not in the $700k Paul Newman market, I found this cool old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ebay.com/itm/305752330877/" target=\"_blank\">Rolex t-shirt</a> on eBay as a consolation prize.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1960 Tudor Submariner Ref. 7928 'Tropical Pointed Crown Guards'"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["482d41f8-0de4-44ce-ba34-a1819a9a61a8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"No, you're not looking at the same watch I featured two weeks back, I promise. Yes, I may have a type when it comes to vintage Tudor Submariners. I detailed my thoughts about matte-but-gilt Tudor Submariners in that <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-august-16-2024/" target=\"_blank\">previous article</a> but it is worth reiterating still. These dials have a very unique look even without tropical patina, but it seems the Tudor-specific process resulted in a propensity to patina in this manner.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This example dates to 1960 and is fresh to market after having been acquired by the selling dealer from the family of the original owner in Hawaii. According to the seller's research, the original owner, Albert Rapozo, was born on Kauai in 1919, joined the U.S. Navy during WWII, and went on to work for the Navy in a civilian capacity following his service. Accompanying the watch is an ID card celebrating Mr. Rapozo's retirement \"after 42 years of honorable Federal service\" at a U.S. Navy Naval Supply Center. It is presumed that the tropical tones we see today are the result of years of wear under the Hawaiian sun – truly a tropical Tudor.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["425f910d-29d2-4f51-968a-c7aeff4f3738"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Due to the original nature of the watch, the seller, Tim from Fog City Vintage in San Francisco, has opted to sell it as is, unserviced and unrestored in any way. The asking price is $29,450 and you can view the listing right <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.fogcityvintage.com/product/1960-tudor-ref-7928-pcg-submariner//" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1930s Universal Genève Compur With Colonial Style Case By Henri Jeanneret"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["aca63b83-db14-4671-ab03-dd9cbed843b6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I've been looking for a great Universal Genève to feature here since Bring A Loupe's revival, but there haven't been many for sale! This column and UG are closely tied in my head, as I first learned about the brand and watches like the Nina Rindt on BAL back in the day. The lack of quality examples from the brand on the market is interesting to me. Given the news of Universal's revival, I believe collectors are waiting and hoarding the best watches.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"An outlier to our current lack of great UG on the market, this 1930s Compur is really special and far less common than something like a Nina or a Clapton. At 34mm in diameter and with a very \"old-world\" look, something like this isn't for everyone, but if you can't see the charm, I would ask you to read some other article on Hodinkee.com instead. Just look at the fonts on the dial with crisp serifs (check out the \"1\"s in the outer track) and I really love the mix of a sector dial-style inner ring with applied hour markers.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["85576f2b-e717-4330-9323-8316d9e57bc0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The seller spills a lot of Internet ink describing what makes this case so special and rightfully so. Put simply, this \"colonial\" style case was an early attempt at a sport watch. It is meant to be stout and tough visually. And the case was manufactured by Henri Jeanneret, one of the best case specialists of this period!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The seller, Sean from S.Song in Malaysia is asking $13,500 for this Univeral Genève Compur. Get all the details right <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ssongwatches.com/products/universal-geneve-compur-colonial-style-case/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1940s Jaeger-LeCoultre Triple Calendar Ref. 2721 In Pink Gold"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8eeed6ee-9e8e-4c22-b004-42e793e7e976"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"My colleague TanTan Wang very much disagrees with me but I find triple calendar complications so charming. In fact, there are few I dislike. Do I need the month, day, and date on my watch? No not really, but who needs any of this stuff anyway? This one from Jaeger-LeCoultre caught my eye (to the surprise of absolutely no one) on a recent visit with Alan from Foundwell here in NYC. I have come across examples of this watch previously and frankly, they're never perfect. Most have over-polished cases and/or refinished dials, which is a shame; this one does not, which is a triumph.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This is a rare watch. And I can say that confidently without risk of argument about what the word \"rare\" means! Put simply, good luck finding another example of this watch with a pink gold case and original dial. I do not see another one for sale today and, in fact, can't think of ever seeing one before. The case is described by the seller as unpolished and from handling the watch, I agree with Alan. It measures a substantial (especially for the period) 35.5mm in diameter and is elegantly thin, hugging the wrist really well.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["70b2c357-4b82-4713-b48c-de709d4c29b1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Alan from Foundwell in New York City is offering this vintage JLC for $5,895. Check it out in full on his site right <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://foundwell.com/collections/antiques/products/jaeger-lecoultre-calendar-2721-18k-pink-gold#\" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1990s Daniel Roth Chronograph Ref. 2147 In Yellow Gold"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["fde8123b-5ed7-4be3-b584-5d3dfaee655f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Fast forwarding around 50 years, this Daniel Roth chronograph is timely, given <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-daniel-roth-tourbillon-in-rose-gold/" target=\"_blank\">this week's release from the revived brand</a> and simply a special watch. Dating to the early years of Daniel Roth's eponymous independent venture after years at Breguet, the reference 2147 chronograph has always been one of my favorite Roth models.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"If you know Daniel Roth, you know his double ellipse case shape. The ref. 2147 chronograph makes great use of the unique shape with the sub-registers adding some much needed structure to the dial. And I really love the pushers, which are also double-ellipse shaped. The dial features another Roth signature, his pinstripe guilloché. The Lemania caliber 2320 found inside was assembled by hand in Roth's workshops and finished to a level that is on par with Patek's ref. 5070, powered by the same base caliber.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["0304959a-86c6-4505-af0d-57a7cda15ec8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This Daniel Roth chronograph is offered for $49,500 via Pushers.io by Zoe from Graal and @watchgirloffduty on Instagram. Click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://pushers.io/listings/chronograph-ref-2147/" target=\"_blank\">here</a> for the listing.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1950s Longines Roulette Pocket Watch In Yellow Gold"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["47c11b87-7ec3-4d4f-a558-c095d04b6b28"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In a somewhat random online auction over at Ineichen, I came across this roulette pocket watch from Longines. I have seen these from various brands over the years, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-dubai-edit/cartier-interesting-novel-gold-pocket-watch-roulette-wheel-103/165603/" target=\"_blank\">Cartier</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5976952/" target=\"_blank\">LeCoultre</a>, Movado, etc., and I previously owned a steel example retailed by Abercrombie & Fitch. They're interesting little watches and among the small group of pocket watches that could be considered useable in 2024! A group of ball bearings separates the inner watch case from the outer roulette portion, hold the middle and spin the outside and boom you're gambling on the go!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://ineichen.com/auctions/timed-63/58//" target=\"_blank\">vintage Longines gambling pocket watch</a> is lot 58 of Ineichen's Elegant Eras sale, ending September 4, 2024. Starting bid is CHF 2,800 and there are no bids at the time of publishing.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1970s Heuer Carrera Ref. 73653N First Execution"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1c60c2e6-f321-4325-b435-86f66a525804"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"EBay is really pumping out some great vintage Heuer lately. This might be a symptom of collectors looking to other brands, but if you've lusted after vintage Heuer, now might be your time to pick one up. The reference 73653N Carrera has long been on my Heuer watchlist, as it was offered for only a few years and has some unique traits. These date to the early 1970s, after the introduction of caliber 11 powered automatic Carreras in a \"c-shape\" case, and blend the 1960s Carrera with the 1970s. You get a manually-wound Valjoux caliber in the shape and style of the Chronomatic references. Due to the manual movement, the case isn't as thick as the automatic c-shapes.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The blue metallic dial of this reference reminds me of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.onthedash.com/mick-jagger//" target=\"_blank\">Mick Jagger's Carrera</a>. Although his was a different reference and automatic, the look is very similar and I'll take it!","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"An eBay seller out of Kragujevac, Serbia, has put <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ebay.com/itm/166934193591/" target=\"_blank\">this Ref. 73653N Carrera</a> up for auction ending Monday, September 2, at 9:54 PM ET. At the time of publishing, there are no bids at the starting price of $4,690.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1960s Audemars Piguet Ultra Thin Dress Watch In Yellow Gold"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1a820cad-ea1b-4c17-a383-3fca8f57e61f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Pre-Royal Oak Audemars Piguet is so overlooked and frankly undervalued. Here is a great example of that, a simple ultra thin dress watch with tons of vintage charm for less than $4k. The case is simple but the lugs are shaped ever so slightly from the side, helping the watch sit better on the wrist. It is only 32mm but that's the look with a watch like this. I have come across a few of these in the metal and I am always drawn to the simple but elegant hour markers. Note the triple line at 12 o'clock and the thicker markers at three, six, and nine.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The JLC-base AP caliber 2003/1 inside is hand wound and (trust me) gorgeous to look at. As an ultra thin movement, this allows for an overall case thickness of 3.75mm (with crystal!).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"An eBay seller out of Miami is offering <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ebay.com/itm/405194587134/" target=\"_blank\">this Audemars Piguet</a> for a Buy It Now of $3,895 or best offer.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1950s Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 6565(?)"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["3313dae2-f6e4-442d-84d9-4f37c1728a48"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Here is a bonus pick coming from a small auction house in New Hampshire. While I find this saying tired, the three C's of vintage watch collecting are said to be \"condition, condition, condition,\" and this watch fits the bill. The watch itself is nothing entirely special – it is likely a reference 6565 Oyster Perpetual from the 1950s, but when found in this kind of condition it is a Rolex even the most snobby of collectors can be proud to wear. With a quite interesting dial design, it's not just your standard vintage OP – just look at the fullness of the lume material and overall patina. This one would be killer after a quick Polywatch session.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Likely coming straight out of an estate, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/184831088_men-s-rolex-stainless-watch-circa-1950-60-no-band/" target=\"_blank\">this Rolex is offered</a> next to various artworks, furniture, and jewelry by William Smith Auctions in Plainfield, New Hampshire, as lot 181 of its 57th Annual Post Labor Day Auction. The estimate was $400-$600, but at the time of publication bidding has reached a whopping $1,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":24,"slug":"whats_selling_where","name":"Bring a Loupe","description":"A weekly round-up of watches for sale from secondary dealers and auctions.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.292-04:00","updated_at":"2021-04-09T15:25:53.851-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"bb745f04-863e-4274-b4f9-5d39019dd05b","container_id":13693,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/3b2cf978-e666-4754-a1b0-6e407126e3f4/b4312a3877cb2534b015faf7faf9e920bc25a2762f2332bb5460cae1c61b4547.jpeg","width":2880,"height":1920,"format":"jpeg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2024-08-29T17:21:49.969-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-29T17:33:47.928-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/3b2cf978-e666-4754-a1b0-6e407126e3f4/b4312a3877cb2534b015faf7faf9e920bc25a2762f2332bb5460cae1c61b4547.jpeg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-august-30-2024","full_title":"Bring a Loupe: A Grail-Level Rolex Paul Newman Daytona, A Jaeger-LeCoultre Triple Calendar, And A Neo-Vintage Daniel Roth Chronograph","tags":["vintage","vintage-rolex","bring-a-loupe","vintage-audemars","vintage-watches"]},{"id":13680,"slug":"the-refreshed-oris-aquis-chronograph","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Refreshed Oris Aquis Chronograph","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-08-29T04:00:09.506-04:00","created_at":"2024-08-27T11:57:19.634-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-29T04:00:09.728-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"A retooled chronograph with not-so-subtle tweaks rounds out the Aquis collection.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":11642,"public_token":"f55b382d5b23fc782b737c31f2a49639","notification_sent":false,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"When in the market for a serious dive watch at a seriously attractive price, the Oris Aquis always comes up in conversation. Continuously producing fans (fanatics in the true sense of the word) and various iterations on a theme, today, the Aquis family welcomes a redesigned chronograph. New for Geneva Watch Days 2024, the Oris Aquis Chronograph offers tweaks that should hit the right notes for both the most ardent collectors of the brand and the greater watch community.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["48ea7d4f-d17d-4cc0-b505-415a0c7423be"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"While the Divers Sixty-Five collection plays the hits with vintage-inspired aesthetics, the Aquis line has always served as Oris's modern tool watch. But the real magic of what Oris is doing with the Aquis as of late is in the details. In 2024, watch lovers don't need a borderline hulking diver to feel thoroughly modern. The key is to find a balance of wrist presence and wearability. Oris did this masterfully with an update to the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-next-generation-oris-aquis-date/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Aquis Date in April of this year</a>, and today, with the Aquis Chronograph, we see the same playbook at work.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The main focus here is the downsized case footprint of 43.50mm in diameter by 16.2mm in thickness– clearly aiming for that substantial yet wearable sweet spot. Compared to the previous generation at 45.5mm by 18.5mm, the change is material. The new Aquis Chronograph brings a \"smiley face\" sub-register layout (three, six, and nine o'clock) to the core catalogue, building off the look of the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.oris.ch/en-US/product/watch/aquis/blue-whale-limited-edition/01-771-7743-4185?srsltid=AfmBOop_nHZR6L5WeixsvI_8KmDIGfNFbOoj8R9N9AIsdGTviSqCna49\%22 target=\"_blank\">2019 Blue Whale LE</a>. In line with the Aquis Date revamp, the case and bezel have been tweaked to be lighter on the eye, and the bracelet has been tapered slightly. The relatively smaller size and slight case tweaks result in a lug-to-lug measurement of 51mm versus the previous 54mm. A ceramic insert fills the uni-directional rotating bezel, and, as any Aquis should be, water resistance sits at 300 meters.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c9551e7a-359a-4bbc-ad50-292494e80517"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Inside is the Oris caliber 771 (Sellita SW 510 base), which is the same caliber as the 2019 LE and the same base as the previous-gen Aquis Chronograph. Yet, this time, the power reserve has been upped to 62 hours rather than 48 hours. A date window is somewhat covertly placed at six o'clock in a roughly color-matched tone to the gradient blue dial.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The new Oris Aquis Chronograph is available now, not limited, for CHF 4,400.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"I've been referencing previous iterations of this model throughout, and it's worth making clear that it has been a few years since we saw an Aquis Chronograph. The Blue Whale LE featured a similar dial as the watch we have today (albeit with a 4:30 date window) but was only available as a part of a three-watch, 200-piece (each) set. Before that, the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.oris.ch/en-US/product/watch/aquis/aquis-chronograph/01-774-7743-4155-07-8-24-05PEB?srsltid=AfmBOorcWYW4ktBe7TTZ8cLPLmriWrs_FW4BCbldylgHfizFI60s3UbP\%22 target=\"_blank\">last-gen \"standard\" Aquis Chronograph</a> featured a 12, six, and nine o'clock sub-register layout. Both were housed in that larger case, spec'd out above. A multi-year lull in Aquis Chronographs makes today's release all the more intriguing.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Oris is smart to give this model another try in light of recent tweaks to the larger Aquis collection, specifically those case and bracelet changes. The new Aquis Chronograph slots in perfectly, aimed at the same Oris fans who are drawn to the new Aquis Date models while serving as the aesthetic counterpart to the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-smaller-divers-sixty-five-chronograph/" target=\"_blank\">Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9a0c508e-1a73-4294-a35d-2bae3edb7a20"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Oris Model: Aquis Chronograph Reference Number: 01 771 7793 4155-07 8 23 01PEB\n\nDiameter: 43.5mm Thickness: 16.2mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Gradient blue Indexes: Applied Lume: Indexes and hands filled with white Super-LumiNova Water Resistance: 300m Strap/Bracelet: Multi-piece stainless steel metal bracelet with Oris-patented security folding clasp with fine adjustment and extension","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Oris 771 Functions: Center hands for hours, minutes, and chronograph seconds, subsidiary dials for continuous seconds and 30-minute and 12-hour counters, fine timing device and stop-second Diameter: 30mm Thickness: 13.25mm Power Reserve: 62h Winding: Automatic Frequency: 4Hz Jewels: 27 ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: CHF 4,400 Availability: Now Limited Edition: No\n\nFor more, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.oris.ch/en-US/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"d550f4c2-e5d1-4382-aa8d-2e872705f4ae","container_id":13680,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/7e4fb70c-d783-4090-8dce-1f7e71943717/0177177934155-0782301PEB-AquisChronograph-43.50mm_HighRes_19671.jpg","width":2560,"height":2161,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"oris aquis chronograph","created_at":"2024-08-27T11:57:19.758-04:00","updated_at":"2024-08-28T09:14:47.499-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/7e4fb70c-d783-4090-8dce-1f7e71943717/0177177934155-0782301PEB-AquisChronograph-43.50mm_HighRes_19671.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-refreshed-oris-aquis-chronograph","full_title":"Introducing: The Refreshed Oris Aquis Chronograph","tags":["oris","dive-watch","oris-aquis","dive-chronograph","geneva-watch-days-2024"]}]}">